US = OP300 vs UK = OP300UK
The Ninja Foodi has been available in the US for some months longer than in the UK. It is my understanding that its availability in the UK is rather recent.

There are a few difference between the US OP300 & UK’s OP300UK version. Notably Temp is Centigrade – most recipes I have seen are listed in Fahrenheit owners guide – and the interface reflects that.

The other potentially confusing thing I noticed in a quick stare & compare was the use of the term Grill in the UK – The US models use “Broil”

It may be (but I do not know) that the included recipe book may have been edited to Brit/Metric terminology – giving quanity in grams instead of ounces – perhaps you can confirm that for this inquiring mind.

Since it is a OP300 version, the Dehydrate function is not offered.
It also seems that the “unique to Ninja Foodi Accessories” are not yet offered in the UK as yet

Although “rumor has it” that Shark/ninja will be offering several on Amazon in both the US and the UK sometime soon (today is April 2019)

Many, if not most of the accessories we discuss are often found on Amazon so that is one place my Brit friends have been successful in finding useful pots, pans etc. MANY of the accessories for Corsori, Instant Pot and many Air Fryers can be used in the Foodi – just watch the height carefully. Foodi’s pot is slighter wider and not as tall (based on manufacturer’s published specifications.

drafted updated 20-April-2019

Caveat Emptor – this article may contain Affiliate Links, if you purchase thru those links,
I might be compensated but am unlikely to get rich anytime soon.

Ninja Foodi ™ Terms, Abbreviations and other stuff that may be helpful when discussing the Foodi Family of appliances in general and the “original Foodi” OP302 known in our home as Darth Vader, is the 6.5 qt which has claimed permanent counter space since December of 2018. it is a countertop kitchen appliance that combines the functions of an (EPC) Electric Pressure Cooker and (AF) AirFryer
TenderCrisp(tm) is the function name used by the Foodi for “most” AF functions that are preceded by use of the (PC) Pressure Cook functionality

Although I also have and used, since March of 2018 the Corsori C3120 2qt EPC – the following is “geared” to Foodi terms as outlined in its (OG) Owner’s Guide .
It is by no means complete, and may be somewhat out of date – your suggestions or questions for clarification are most welcome in the comments.

The OG Owner’s Guide is by not a complete reference but is very helpful and worth the time to at least browse a few time. Not to memorize, but to have an idea of where to look when you need an answer NOW
All the of the appliance I own do have their manuals on line and sometimes that is helpful for deciding which one is “right for you”
Tiplet – pull up a stool in front your machine with it unplugged, and go thru the Features and functions, touching the appropriate buttons to start to get oriented to all your new Kitchen companion can do for you.

It is my observation that easily 80% of the “technical” questions asked in the Foodi groups are answered in the User Guide. I strongly recommend you read thru the Owner’s Guide at least once or twice.

AC = Air Crisp is the Ninja Foodi term used on it original products for AF.

AF = AIR FRY(ER) is a counter top device that allows one to crisp / fry with very limited oil – Foodi uses the term “Tender Crisp” to describe it AF functionality

EPC = Electric Pressure Cooker – an electric counter top appliance that cooks food under pressure – There are many many brands of EPC, mine is the Foodi 6.5 quart model OP 302

NPR = Natural Pressure Release
(same as Natural Release below)

NR = Natural Release means to leave the steam vent closed until the pressure releases on its own. A complete NR, means until the locking pin drops. Tiplet: Note, cooking continues during what can be a longish process depending on the amount of liquid that has to cool from gas/steam to liquid
It is not unusual for there to be some residual = just move lever to vent
Tiplet I factor in the cooking that occurs for a full NR. It takes some trial and error, but has proven worth the effort (read that I get distracted and forget to come back ) It also has proven that I can reduce the PC cook time and thus energy costs by about 7% so I get to be lazy/distracted and frugal.

PC = Pressure Cooker a device that cooks food under pressure and raised temperature. May be either electric or stove top.

PIP = Pot In Pot. Food placed in a pot or pan that can be used either for less mess or “serial” meal prep – Although not exactly the same, the use of the Foodi Crisper Basket might be considered PIP, certainly those using baking accessories such as a springform, are using a from of PIP. I use PIP quite often.

QR = Quick Release
Open vent to release steam quickly – for safety it is recommended you use a long handle spoon to move the valve for QR. It is suggested and in my experience true, that QR should not be used for meats etc until you have done at least a 10 min NR (natural release) UNLESS specifically directed in a recipe from a trusted author.

Red (dot) Float Valve may stick even after full pressure release (and there are several reasons this happens) a very GENTLE tap with the end of a wooden spoon should cause it to drop and so release the lid

RR – Reversible Rack included with your purchase eliminates the need for the wasteful aluminum foil strip or the silicone slings that may be to tight a fit for the Foodi and thus interfere with both PC & AF functions. The Reversible Rack – somewhat unique to the Foodi – can serve as a trivet for large cuts of meat like a slab of Corned Beef. Or, as a Sling for easy in/out when using the PIP (Pot In Pot) Method

Tiplet There are two styles of Reversible Rack. The new double stack included with the latest version of the 8qt does NOT fit in the 6.5.

Trivet = the metal rack that goes in the bottom In the Foodi, the reversible rack that is included in your purchase can be considered a Trivet.
of your pot to keep food out of the liquid. This can be a separate item or Foodi owners will find the Reversible Rack rather handy for this function.
Trivet Tiplet There are two styles of Reversible Rack. The new double stack included with the latest version of the 8qt does NOT fit in the 6.5.

Water Test = accomplishes two things. First it gives you some “hands on” orientation for the PC function. Second, it often results in finding any malfunction or needs for you to more carefully seat the sealing ring.

This is by no means complete and as I said you suggestions for clarification or additions are most welcomed.

If you think I am wrong – Let’s Talk About It. I love hearing about others ides, opinions and experience.

If you are interested in accessories, I do have an Amazon page which includes items I have used or plan to try at
https://www.amazon.com/shop/wheatcarr

Please respect the effort that goes into putting something like this together.
If you think someone will benefit, please copy this link
https://wheatcarr.com/semantics/ninja-foodi-terms-more.php
not a cut and paste of the content to your own or in a group.

This draft was started 20-Apr-2019 and still need works.
Some updating was done in Late April 2020

My Ninja has a First Name:
it’s D A R T H
My Foodi has a Last Name:
it’s V A D E R
Oh I love to use it every day
and If you ask why, I”ll say:
Cause Ninja Foodi’s the best way
To make so many meals each & every day

the journey began December 18, 2018

One of those sayings that is all too true is that one does not get a second chance at a first impression, do overs maybe, but not first impressions.

Pattern Editors may or may not be exposed to the photo of the project, but often their first impression is entirely based on the text.

A lot about the likely quality of the pattern instructions can be determined in Tools, Materials and Supplies listing. Just the presence or absence of it being followed by a “Stitches Used” listing.

it is my strongly held opinion that in today’s world those who do not list Metric are doing their potential customers a severe dis-service.

Any pattern author or even pattern user can easily see that “just letters” or just “numbers” don’t work if they actually look at:
https://wheatcarr.com/crochet/wheats-aluminum-crochet-hook-cross-reference.php
this chart is only a starting point, as due to some recent changes in sizing by several manufacturer it is in need of updating for purposes of “currently available”.

It is even more vital that metric sizing be included when referring to “thread” hooks since there are several standards (although I prefer the Japanese) Yet, even that can change of the years.

The meaning of D is not only subject to the Manufacturer whim, but even within the same manufacturer, may change suddenly. I have some BOYE size N that are 9.00mm and some that are 10.00mm –

I remember one particular author who had no idea (and we were unable to explain) how to use a caliper

In fact, a Pattern Author who wishes to “skimp” on the details, should, IMNHO, give metric diameter – since it is more universal and not subjectively based on the manufacturer other than for accuracy

Someday I need to finish this.

The purpose of this article is to share a starting point of the information necessary to make the best possible investment – time or money – in your choice of braiding equipment.

Let me make it clear – There is nothing wrong with using a disc or improvised or self made braiding equipment. If that is what is currently in your budget. Many of us have; some including me, still do use both MaruDai and other types braiding stands, just remember flat tops are not Marudai and your results may not be of the quality you hope to achieve. And, I DO recommend you “buy a book” and try with improvised equipment as the first step in your research.

In their beginner books Carey & Owen give ideas for improvised equipment – and see if you enjoy it. the braids will not be perfect or wonderful, that comes with better equipment and practice. Remember: There are many types of braiding equipment not every stand is Japanese in style, or evea a MaruDai and it cannot be said often enough – NOT all braids are Kumihimo.

What makes it a Marudai and not “just” a braiding Stand? Whether you know the Japanese name: Hakomi or the often used “English” words like Scoop or Well or Bowl …
The Hakomi Matters.
Without a Hakomi it is not a Marudai

Hekomi Side View
courtesy: Michael Hattori

Why is the Hakomi critical. Perhaps the best answer can be found in two message threads in the FaceBook group: Kumihimo Braiders International in July of 2014 when Michael Hattori was asked, as part of the discussion related to his “announcement:” of his YouTube video and shared with his specific permission:

.. how important is the well in a mirror? I bought one without a well ….
And Michael responded: … we are talking about basics.

The “well” is one of my soapbox topics, and you asked for it! The well is one of THE most important features of a marudai, and in my opinion, any marudai without one should not be used. Its purpose it to provide a “free” space where the threads do not touch the marudai; this allows the threads to fall naturally into place. The depth of the well also causes the threads to angle down toward the point of braiding – another feature which helps the braid to form correctly.

If your mirror is completely flat, the threads move in a straight line to the point of braiding; this means there is friction on the thread almost all the way to the point of braiding, which impedes the formation of the braid. If you are doing just a Yotsu-gumi, you can get away with it, but once you start working with larger numbers of tama, it is absolutely essential.

I’ve said it a million times before, and I’ll say it again: kumihimo has been around for centuries, and the Japanese are known for their ability to refine things to levels unprecedented elsewhere in the world. So, you can bet that every single design aspect of a marudai has been thought out and trialed over hundreds of years and nothing has been left to chance.

It is the folly, unfortunately, of many people who try to make their own kumihimo equipment that this is not taken into consideration, and essential things such as the well are left out.

My advice is to either get a marudai with the well, or find someone who can put one on the marudai you have, paying very close attention to the width, depth and curvature of it.

Sorry for the novel, but you did hit on one of my biggest pet peeves about homemade kumihimo equipment! But I hope I’ve helped you to understand the importance of using a properly made marudai.

2014-07-28 in KBI, Michael shared photos and this additional thoughts.

For … anyone else interested in the “why” of the well on a marudai: a picture is worth a thousand words.

Many homemade marudai are missing this essential feature. These photos show the downward angle and the all-important free space created by the well, both of which allow the braid to “breathe” and form naturally at the point of braiding. The problem with a completely flat mirror is that the threads are then subjected to friction almost all the way to the point of braiding, which can impede the correct formation of the braid; the more tama you are using, the more important this feature becomes.

The marudai has been around for several centuries, and with the Japanese penchant for ultra-refinement, you can bet they haven’t missed anything! So, in my humble opinion, if it ain’t got a well, it ain’t a marudai!

Michael has established the minimum criteria for “what makes it a MaruDai, Well, exactly” – it does not mean other equipment cannot be used, it is just not a MaruDai – Like Michael Hattori I agree if it lacks a Well, then it is not a MaruDai, it is a Braiding Stand – and that tool also has an honorable history, but its roots are not in Japan.

I understand personal budget issues, so like many, it was quite a while before I could afford a Marudai that would “works best for me”. Well worth the wait. That does not mean my braiding stand(s) have not been used, and each as a personal history – only that I always knew my traditional braids would be so much better when I had one.

Meanwhile, for some of the more non-traditional work, beaded braids, wire word and of course – occasional side trips into Victorian Hair work, the flat top continued to be adequate to those tasks.

Thinking about making your own?

Michael Hattori’s measured drawing can be downloaded from my Kumihimo Links Page

added 2015-Jan-09: Not sure if it is mentioned in the Measured Drawing PDF – there are different schools of thought on the height – as was recommended to me (and reinforced by learning the reality the hard way) the top of your mirror should be about the same when you arms are at straight down your side from shoulder to elbow and your forearm is at a 90-95 degree angle to your body. With good back support, this enables me to braid for longer periods

Want to chat about this and related Jewelry & Accessory Making? Join us on FaceBook at: Braids Beaded Kumihimo & More with many thanks to Makiko Tada, Jacquie Carey, Michael Hattori, Carol Miller Franklin, Maryse Levinson, Shirley Berlin, Tim Hale (FiberArtistSupply, Carol Haushalter (Carolyn910), Janis Saunders (BraidersHand). Anita Clark and dozens of others for their permission to include their thoughts and illustrations. Not to mention their decades of patient willingness to answer all my questions about the details and delights of Kumihimo and all braiding techniques.

originally published (and still shared) via ItsAllJustString.COM – Kumihimo and Braiding

Marudai’s I have used and happily recommend: *click for larger image in a new window”

Berlin Braids

BraidersHand

FiberArtistSupply

These books will be valuable to you even if you decide to stick with the Disc. There are many “details” of braiding that will better enable you to take the step from Disc to Dai

Jacqui Carey Click To Visit Info Page

Rodrick Owen Click To Visit Info Page