Like so many things in this life, the following is a work in progress. What seems “clear” to me, may need to be further clarified to make sense to you.

How to choose beads for your braid is a question often asked and so it has me thinking about how do I do that. And, will sharing that help others?

No matter which braid structure the JABber (Jewelry and Accessory Braider) chooses, some combinations will work, and some will not but it helps to know:

1: Maximum Length tip to tip,
2: Maximum Width side to side
3: Maximum Depth front to back
4. Width of bead at the opening – note: sometimes the same as 3.
5. Distance from the center of the opening to the tip.

Fitting beads into a braid structure is not unlike solving a picture puzzle.
For me, the key to puzzle is understanding how the 4th and 5th dimensions of the beads shape will integrate into the body of the braid.

Assuming your willingness to consider all available options one can usually solve your personal concept issues. Options include but are not limited to the use of different structures, bead density Continuous, Fully or Partialy beaded), combinations of bead and stringing materials (1), and the list goes on.

In summary, if you understand the materials and the considerations of the shape, then you are freed from relying on the choices of others.

Whenever possible, braiders tend to like “top drilled” shapes – not the only possible choice – but often the best at least until you have a bit more experience mixing beads into your braids.

There are several inexpensive tools while not absolutely precise, with care, accurate enough to help you plan your project, shop for the beads and stringing materials. These can be found in just about any Home Despot type store – usually for under $10 for all three (amazingly, I do not sell any of them in our store but maybe I should)

As always, your comments, suggestions, request for clarification are welcomed below and in the Facebook (non-traditional) Study Group:
Braids Beaded Kumihimo & More

Enjoy The Making

Wheat

References & Strange things found in my tool boxes & Go Bag. (add images and/or link details as needed)

1. Carolyn Haulshalter: http://topcenter.typepad.com/

2. Empire 6inch Pocket Rule Item 2730 0-46609-02730-7

Thomas J Glover – Pocket Ref (2nd Edition – 1997) ISBN: 1-885071-00-0

Lincoln Electric Tip Cleaner Item: KH575 7-25636-08020-1
this tool can be used to determine needle to be used for stringing, to hold the bead while measuring and other things “in a pinch” – while shopping (with floss card) to hold enough beads to get a quick Beads Per Inch count.
also to be explained Wikipedia – Drill Bit Sizes – Conversion Table https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit_sizes#Drill_Bit_Conversion_Table

Lots of people do not understand the attraction of Donald Trump – and I have said it might be that maybe one has to have been politically active as a business (not politician) person in NY and the world to begin to understand his attraction.

In my 20’s I had the opportunity to be “in the room” and see him action. I am not a fan of him as a man , but do respect his ability as someone who seemed to find that balance in nearly every instance that is so necessary to a solid business deal –

There is no question that those deals usually had more benefit to the Trump organizations, so yes, the NY “It’s just business” enters the judgement equation.

Still those that closed were the ones where you do not necessarily get everything you want, but everyone gets enough to walk away accepting its terms.

Much is being said about his ability to work with Congress – well, isn’t that what the system of checks and balances is about? Until term limits exist for the members of Congress – The Executive branch should still be able to exercise it ability to contribute to the balance. The self interest of desiring re=election in a all access world means that a fair number of members of Congress will need to act in the something resembling the best interest of their constituents

I am opposed as an American to socialism. I am opposed to the callous disregard of the Clintons and the Obamas for what I perceive as the best interests of the citizens of the United States.

So that brings us to a choice between, at the moment of an obvious party hack – one most likely to continue the policies and practices of division in order to increase and retain personal power, , a caped crusader who may not be able bend in order to get anything done
and a business man with no political track record other than what we see in his life long long business practices (including the common practice of donating to all parties because that is “just business” )

The only thing I am now clear about is not that I want to make American great – I continue to believe the United States is already great –

What I want is President I can believe until proven otherwise that will put the interests of the USA and it citizens first.

Some okay much of the confusion about Japanese braiding terms is the direct result of two things.

First, It is often nearly impossible to make a direct translation to a word commonly used in the English Language. This applies to much more than braiding. This is not unique to Japanese – some of my most interesting moments in craft “translating” have involved Russian, Ukrainian, Polish and German.

So, the challenge to authors and teachers focusing on the “English as a first or even second language was to use terms that would make sense to their audience.

Which brings us to the second reason there is so much misunderstanding.

Authors like Tada, Owen, Carey, Berlin, et al – were, for the most part “speaking to fiber people” NOT Bead people. Japanese craft more than most has very unique words for each part of the process, the tools and the materials used.

The result is the mis-use of terms by those who may not have a solid understanding of fiber craft related terms in any or perhaps only in their own native language.

Then, there is the InterMyth factor – a term gets used by a “popular” person and then it gets repeated and pretty soon it is treated as “fact” when really it is the direct result of misunderstanding/lack of knowledge. Not helpful to those who wish to learn beyond the simplest or easiest.

I know that not everyone is a OCD as I may be, although I never ‘filed’ the papers – Setting aside the professionaly taught classes for “the basics” I also spent several years working my way thru each of the HGA (Handweaver Guild of America) COE (certificate of excellence) requirement so I would better understand when those more advanced than I were “talking” Not a path for anyone but then few people have as many college credits as I do because I never cared about a degree – just spent money taking courses of interest to me to advance my knowledge base for a subject.

My personal goal is to help those with a desire to know more but may not have had the advantage of studying other craft to know enough to facilitate their quest for more knowledge and expanded skills.

Once the AKS (American Kumihimo Society) goal of an online wiki for just this purpose – I suppose my work will not be needed. But in the meantime I hope you will join me on this journey and that it will help you to

Enjoy The Making

Wheat

ID=A – Inner Diameter       OD=B – Outer Diameter       HT=C – Height / Thickness

---

Brand Name	SRP*	Size	Handle Fit	Center_A ID_Inches	Center_A ID_MM	Disc OD_Inches	Disc OD_CM	Disc HT_Inch	Disc HT_MM
BeadSmith DD *	5.00	Large	yes	1 1/4 in	35 mm	5 13/16 in	15 cm	0.75in	20mm
BeadSmith DD Mini *	4.50	Small	yes	1 1/4 in	14 mm	4 3/16 in	10.6 cm	0.75in	20mm
BeadSmith SD *	3.38	Large	yes	15/16 in	14mm	5 13/16 in	15 cm	0.375in	10mm
BeadSmith SD Mini: *	3.18	Small		15/16 in	14 mm	4 3/16 in	10.6 cm	0.375in	10mm
Beadaholique:	5.49	Large	no	7/8 in	12 mm	5 7/8 in	15 cm	0.3125in	8mm
Beadalon	3.19	Small	no	15/16 in	14mm	4 1/4in	10.8 cm	0.375in	10mm
Beadalon	3.99	Large	no	15/16 in	14mm	6 in	15 cm	0.375in	10mm
Dazzle-it:	3.99	Large	no	15/16 in	12 mm	5 7/8 in	15 cm	0.3125in	8mm
Fire Mountain	3.52	Small	no	7/8 in	12 mm	4 1/4in	10.8 cm	.3125in	8mm
Hamanaka:	10.00	Large	no	15/16 in	14mm	5 7/8 in	15 cm	.4375in	12mm
Sally Battis:	8.00	Large	no***	1 1/4 in	35 mm	5 1/2in	14 cm	0.75in	20mm
Toner 4-pk	6.99	Small	no	3/4 in	20 mm	4 1/4in	10.8 cm	.3125in	8mm
Weir:	3.95	Large	yes	1 1/4 in	35 mm	5 1/2in	14 cm	0.4375in	12mm
With thanks to Carolyn910, BeadSmith, and Sally Battis for providing some details. And BeadSmith for written permission to use their images.
* SRP is the advertised Suggested Retail Price – last updated 2016-March-10 – Always check your seller for most recent price.
** Prior to 2015 BeadSmith SD discs has 25mm center – this do not fit the BeadSmith Handle – price used is with instruction for 8 and 16 Round Spiral (Japanese Name: Kongo Gumi ).
*** Sally Battis disc has a beveled center opening on the bottom. As a result, although the same Center hole ID on top/numbered side, it likely will not support the BeadSmith handle.

Comments, additional details, questions, corrections always welcomed

If you would like to see the line of BeadSmith Disc for Braiding
visit our e-store by clicking here to see our products and pricing

The Question: What are the definitions and standards for instructional
materials came up in a “group”

Answer: They do not exist. … But they should….

This is by no means an exact answer, but I guess – a lot of opinion and a few facts.

Almost daily, I get email, phone calls, or PM’ s from my customers who bought some publication and find it wanting. It never ceases to amaze me the crap that is offered for sale – and I have lost sleep while wondering if they are that much of an amateur or if the author just did not care. I suspect usually a combination of both – especially lately.

Long ago I had a business partner who like to say “Cheap can cost you dear” and I have had the pleasure to work with many old school industry professionals on many different career paths who understood that and so worked towards raising the bar on publications and product.

So a better way to put that might be: There is a difference between Frugal & Cheap =

In beadwork, unlike in the YARNandTHREAD community, (knit, crochet, weaving, sewing etc) there are no National/International Academic “society” and there is no bead specific industry group and there are no organizations remaining professional organizations for “craft” professionals as exist for those who work with fibers and fabrics.

Without those types of organizations, Academic, Professional and Trade, only with a working partnership of 2 or more = there is no viable way to set standards – so it is continues to be the wild west. Even, to the best of my knowledge, the Japanese who have standards for just about everything do not for beads sizing

Realistically there is absolutely no incentive for such organizations to come into being and then to develop standards and work toward getting those accepted. Frankly if it had to happen again in fiber, I doubt it would be possible to get it done today because of the combination of lack of those willing to do what has to be done – at significant personal expense ( dollars and time ) and the apparent unwillingness of the majority consumers to bear the cost of more comprehensive instructional materials. So too small a market for quality.

Hell few know as well as i do that it is almost dangerous to even suggest that at the very least, accurate information should be norm. Because those who do so are often excoriated, ridiculed and told they are mean and nasty Certainly anyone “in the business” knows the risks of not only having higher expectations, but expecting those with a product to meet them. Not the least of which is to have those who offer substandard products and information lobbying a group admin to remove the person and then name call or otherwise harm their reputation.

Personally, I will not buy an instructional materials unless there some way I can see a sample of the quality of the publication. Ideally it should be a complimentary work – and it can be very basic – that will demonstrate the kinds of learning aids that will be included in their product.

I am a fanatic about the details – and if the sample work does not bother to reflect care and concern for enabling the buyer – then I am not interested.

If their offerings are clearly copies of anther’s work

I believe the sales description should include a list of “skills needed” as specific as possible and not some vague or arbitrary and undefined references such “beginner”, advanced beginner, intermediate, etc.

I know many would like an exact list of “materials used” available prior to sale but that is a multi-sided discussion unto itself.

What is included – charts, graphs, illustrations, etc should be mentioned.

Who is the audience? Obviously if the seller is the author and is selling direct to consumers, then their product had better be geared to that niche and have what is needed for those with the skills needed to successfully complete the product.

However, many of the free patterns offered by bead and other manufacturers of products used in the making are not really intended for use by consumers – they are meant to inspire you and it is expected that additional and instruction will be provided by the entity who sells you the supplies.

I absolutely agree Videos should be a supplement not a substitute for well written instructions.

At the same time, you the buyer have some responsibility as well. If you want certain features included then you have to be willing to pay for them.

Wow this got way longer than I planned, so stepping off this soapbox is likely going to at least result in a sprained if not broken ankle

Probably need to edit this more – but really do hope you will consider that there is more to your purchasing choices – instructional or supplies – than just price.

originally posted to the FaceBook group BWAN (not mine) 2016-Jan-08