July 9th, 2013 at 08:44 am » Comments (0)

Brian Milco, creator of Stitchworks Software (also the programmer, marketing dept, makes the coffee, empties the trash, and pretty much every thing to do with the software I am currently attempting to conquer) shared this tiplet in my yahoogroup for SymbolCrochet

On 7/9/2013 12:22 AM, Brian Milco wrote:
> One tip for creating stitch symbols: If all you need are symbols that are in the library already you can create a motif on a blank chart, export the motif as an svg file and import it into the library as a single symbol. It will scale and change colors just like the other symbols.

And Wheat responded:
I am tattooing this tiplet on the inside of my arm. THANK YOU (and yes I am shouting)

Now off to try it
—
Enjoy The Making
Wheat

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July 7th, 2013 at 10:01 am » Comments (0)

Pattern Gauge is the gauge that the Pattern Author has designated as what is needed for the project to be “as advertised”

This is technical a draft, but it has the basics covered and eventually I will add to it –

Pattern Gauge is, often as not – DIFFERENT than the LABEL Gauge (the information noted on the yarn label) So you can’t just look at the pattern gauge and know what style of yarn to choose (DK, Worsted, Bulky, etc)

Hopefully the Pattern Author has also included some yarn specifics, for example many of patterns call for lace and fingering weight yarns and use 6mm and larger hooks – not the Label suggestion of 2.23mm to 3.5mm.

Pattern Gauge has a huge effect on the amount of yarn needed to complete the project. One might think that with the many wonderful smorgasbord project – people would be inclined to buy sufficient yarn even if that means a bit leftover. But they don’t and then its gets dicey because that color or dyelot or even that yarn may no longer be around.

So, in addition to the very real issue of yarn needed for the project and how gauge can make that a very painful experience, you know the kind you learn the hard way.

Gauge ALWAYS matters. Size Always Matters In Craft.

GAUGE IS NOT JUST ABOUT SIZE –

it is also about

HAND – the feel of the fabric – if your gauge is off it means your fabric might be too floppy/open to be useful for the project OR conversely, too tight and it is more like armour than a fabric you want to wrap your self in.

SURFACE DESIGN – if you go to the trouble to work pattern motifs, if your gauge is off you may lose the necessary stitch definition needed to make that project all it can be

PATTERN AUTHOR INTENT – Many time the PATTERN GAUGE is not the Same as the LABEL GAUGE and if your goal is to have your project look like the pattern author intended, then you need to swatch to find the combination of yarn and hook that will enable you to meet that expectation.

Now I need to get a started on things like “My Gauge”, Label Gauge, and of course the OCD Swatch.

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Originally published as a page in 2013, moved to blog posts 2021-Feb-19

June 23rd, 2013 at 11:00 am » Comments (4)

I remember a conversation with one of the executives at Jeanette Crews some years ago. We have been having some timiliness issues with a particular designer and and the “money” guy was a bit upset about the losses because we coule not get a pre-sold book to press. He asked in an outdoor voice, “Can’t we just scan it into something and get the instructions”. The three design professionals AND company CEO all said, in GREAT outdoor voices NO!!! Someone added “and best you get that thru your thick head once and for all”.

There is much more to pattern authoring than just the design of a motif, the choosing of a shape, and oh well the list goes on.

As often as not, I will get an email that makes it clear to me that something is not clear. Confused yet?

So many misunderstandings occur when Semantics meets Expectations

how does this relate to Symbol Crochet – Well, at the moment we have very few options, each has benefits BUT none of them can replace a Pattern Author or at least none in the the under $100 category includes the ability to WRITE/Author a Pattern –
And if I had time to research, I suspect it would in the uner $200 and in some cases features in the $2000 and up range.

Rather they CHART – create a graphic representation of a series of stitches to form a Motif.

The route of the chaos might be that while most professional designers understand that until they are ready to spend a LOT more money, many new to the business of design have not yet understood this and think at the programs in the $ 50.00 range are going to deliver.

For example, looking at the two I use/have used for CROCHET CHARTING

New England’s Software describes the purpose of SymbolCro as to provide computer aided drafting of circular and/or rectangular crochet patterns using symbols.

StitchWorks describes itself as software for creating symbol crochet charts that can be shared or published …

Neither says it is a pattern writer and frankly I don’t want them to be. When we are working on patterns for publications we have to be able to format as needed.

Are there “I Wish” features – sure – but we can all save ourselves a LOT of upset if we take the time to understand what we are buying and then make a decision if it meets our needs.

Life is just too dang short to waste any of it on unreasonable expectations.

May 20th, 2013 at 08:08 am » Comments (1)

If the question posed in the Tunsian Crochet group had asked about converting Crochet to Knit or Knit to Crochet, a polite referral to my blog article in 2007 would have been the short answer. Well really No, would be the short answer, but the link would be next most brief

Instead, the question asked was about “regular” to “Tunisian” crochet and since they are both crochet – it is more doable with a reasonably positive result.

Caveat Emptor, I do sell Crochet related books, quite a few actually, just not all on line at the moment. And yes I do sell mostly Technique reference and some patterns were I like the way the patterns are written.

Please understand, the reason I sell them is because I use them. I use them as a starting point for EXACTLY the type of project you are asking for.

If the only thing about the pattern you like is the “shape” of the final garment, then your plan might be okay. If it is the texture and/or the hand of the garment or any characteristic related to the technique used, then it may not be satisfactory.

In a teaching/consulting situation, I would be asking you why, if you know both, you want to do it in another technique How you answered would/could lead to whole different set of questions and answers. If you would like to continue this type of discussion, let me know in the comments.

When I see a project in a technique that is not the one I want to use, In this case Pattern in Crochet and you want to use Tunisian,

I would start by doing an “IN PATTERN” Swatch in the original pattern’s technique. Then see if it can be easily duplicated.
In this case, it really should be not all that difficult to almost duplicate the SC, HDC alternating motif you describe. You will only need to pay close attention to your Yarn Over’s (YO) in the forward pass to be sure you have the loops need.

For a more complicated stitch motif, next stop would be the shelf with all the technique references and “find the stitch motif” that duplicates or comes really close. You might not be surprised to learn this shelf has a very comfy chair, a place for my coffee cup and a good supply of graph paper and coloured pencil for design and gel pens for outlining and of course various sized hooks and yarns for swatching.

Once you find a motif that fits your needs, you will need to swatch with the actual yarn and various sized hooks until you get the gauge needed for the hand of fabric you prefer.

I need to thank Marisa for her question, it helped me to get a good start on explaining a concept I hope to explore further in my blog in the coming months.

Enjoy The Making
Wheat

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Edit note: Thanks to Ann McClure for finding my typos, proving yet again editors need editors and proof readers too

March 31st, 2013 at 10:06 am » Comments (3)

There are more possible ways to start a project, but the two most commonly know are the “tradtional” Base Chain

Base Chain, aka/ The Base Row From Hell, is something to get past. It causes everyone issues from time to time and probably is responsible for 90% of those who give up on Crochet. You may not be surprised to find that I do not think using a large hook for the chain is a good solution. IMNHO it creates more problems than it solves and makes a sloppy edge – but if it works for you and you are happy with the result who am I to judge?

As an alternative, many of us use Chainless Foundations whenever possible, there are situations when it is not right for the project (thankfully not too many ) There exceptions to the following, but fewer than you might thing – so relax and learn to enjoy the anticipation of getting past the base chain.

But whichever method you choose, a traditional Base or Foundationless chain, be sure to leave a “Tail Marker”

Somewhere along the line I began using the phrase “Tail Marker” Later, in an attempt at discretion “Kite String” – although either can be appropriately descriptive, depends on the age and life experience/attitude of the student – trust me one has to be aware of possible urban connotations when volunteering in an inner city after school program or lots of other places – although the gentleman at the VA did find it amusing when I keep telling then not to forget their piece of tail)

Whether you must use a Base Chain or can use the Chainless Foundation, START with a Chain that is longer.

How much longer will depend on the project and your planned finishing style. If you are working a traditional base chain, it may not be the end of the world – still, if you counted wrong, you don’t have to rip back to add more. When one compares the cost of a yard of yarn with the value of the time to rip and rework – it is an excellent trade off

When the project requires the use of a Base Chain I always make the chain long enough to support at least two or three motifs. So if the Motif requires 6+2, I will make the chain at least an extra 18 or so links.
Aside from counting wrong for the pattern, because of variation in personal gauge, you have feel at the end of that first row it really needs to be a motif or two wider

The excess links now serve as my “marker” for RS/WS – Right Side/Wrong Side aka: FS/BS – Front Side/Back Side .

Determining RS/WS, often difficult for those who crochet, as the work may appear the same on both sides. It is very helpful when a project has been set aside. With the TAIL MARKER, you have a quick reference to get restarted in the correct direction.

It does not matter if you are left or right handed, the principle is the same. The Tail Marker should always be on the same side – since I am mostly right hand dominant, the tail will be on my LEFT when the Right side is facing me .

The CHAINLESS FOUNDATION

For those who may have difficulty with CHAINLESS FOUNDATION “counts” the Tail Marker serves to make it much easier to see where the first stitch of your Chainless work begins.

Once you have the concept that the Chainless Foundation is both your BASE CHAIN and YOUR FIRST ROW , it becomes easier to grasp that you now work a turning chain as directed in your pattern at the end of the direct row, turn your work and continue.

If you enjoy experimenting with stitch motifs squares worked in the round, the Tail Maker will help you to avoid accidentally placing the “wrong” up as you

When working in the round, as one does for Grannie Squares, the ” Reverse Tail Marker” is made by leaving a tail at the lower corner. How long that should be will depend on what you have planned for “connecting” pieces of your work/project. A Short length of yarn can be used to connect corners – a hand technique in some thread or scrumbling work.

For example, when ready to assemble squares I often use either the illusion of Stained Glass or Attic/Cathedral Windows blocks. To do this each round is usually finished with at least one row of single crochet. By leaving enough yarn to then use my favorite join, that of using a modified SC – Single Crochet, I don’t have to add yarn – which means one less Russian Join or one less knot and end to weave.

I hope you will find the use of a KITE TAIL MARKER helpful whatever style of foundation you choose.

Always Remember The Point Is To Enjoy The Making

Wheat

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