I generally try very hard NOT express an opinion about the best hook(s), still, every week people keep asking. With this in mind, please let me share what works for Wheat and Why.
I like hooks ends that are tapered or what I call a Flat Taper style mostly produced in India, Japan, Germany & a few other countries. I prefer metal but understand the production issues once you get above 7.00mm as well as the issues for wood in hooks smaller than about 3.75mm
Added: 2013-Mar-17: In answer to a few emails, The flat taper or rounded point is easier on my hands. It gives one the “point” needed to more easily enter the stitches but is less likely to split the yarn plies. Also, this rounded point/taper is not sharp enough to hurt/puncture your fingers – really a pain to get blood out of the fibers.
Hooks and the type you choose to use is a VERY personal decision Everyone wants a good value for their dollar so that is a given. After that, some look for the least expensive, some look for utility, some look for beauty and last but least some look to economic impact. You will need to decide which combination works for your circumstances.
Hooks are tools, they will be used OVER and OVER. With the exception of a set of the Pony Rosewood, I do not collect them to look pretty on my desk – Others get great enjoyment from such collections and while I often admire the artistry it is just not my thing. Last but not least I choose impact.
Beginning with 2000 New Year resolution (I only make one a year) my decision was that with very rare exceptions, there was no need in my home or business for products that did not create US Jobs. It would have been unrealistic to say only made in the USA but I do try to find those products and it is amazing how much you really don’t need if you choose that path and take care of what you have so it “lasts”.
Yes, many of the hooks, books, and yarns and other products currently available at ItsAllJustString are not made in the USA – BUT they do come to me thru US Distributors and that means US Jobs for US Citizens From Seaman/Sailors, to dock workers, to distributors, to delivery services and oh yeah, independent retailers – brick or click – who, like my family need to pay everyday bills.
It would be my hope that you would choose to support independent retailers and especially those both locally or on line who choose to support your creative passion not only with products they sell, but who share your passion with me for a particular craft and offer their assistance and expertise in your favorite discussion groups. Many, like me, are willing to help you find what you want or need even if we don’t sell it.
So,…. Personal Preference,
I have most of the “old/Made in the USA” Boye hooks, I have all sizes ever offered (including two that have been discontinued so their sizes would match the CYC standard Clover Soft Touch.
All Pony Double Ended in Both Straight and Circular and a set of standard hooks, a mix of metal and plastic to which I added one or two sizes. There is also a box with “onsies” of pretty much every other style and brand offered in the USA –
There are some sizes for the 14″ doubled end straights that we sometimes have from Boye – notably their N hook (depending on when you bought it is either a 9 or 10 mm barrel) There are brands we choose not to offer for a variety of reasons.
And yes, I did give in once to vanity – I have a set of the Pony Rosewood – don’t use them much, they are pretty to look at.
On a day to day basis, among the “stuff” in my purse is one of the Pony Sets – it pretty much covers what I need in case of a Crochet emergency, like swatch yarn at a shop or in case the proper hooks is not with the project I carried along
Repeating, because it is important, Hooks are a very personal decision. Before committing to a big investment, try different styles. Both Denise & Knitters Pride bits can be purchased to create a single unit – make a few things and see if it fits your needs.
I recommend that for standard, fixed length hooks, you get one in a size you often use and for flexible/interchangeable, same thing on size, but with a cable length not included in the standard set if possible. That way if you decide to go with the set later, you will not duplicate the cable lengths and will have an extra hook end in your favorite size.
Enjoy The Making
Wheat Added: 2013-Mar-17: In answer to a few emails, The flat taper or rounded point is easier on my hands. It gives one the “point” needed to more easily enter the stitches but is less likely to split the yarn plies. Also, this rounded point/taper is not sharp enough to hurt/puncture your fingers – really a pain to get blood out of the fibers.
Hmmm….. I wonder if the new versions of either SymbolCro or Stitchworks would allow me to create a schematics to fill in with a crochet chart. My crocs may never be the same
Kim Guzman the well known Tunisian Crochet Designer is planning a CAL (Crochet-A-Long) based on a vintage Tunisian Men’s Glove Pattern
Kim started planning this CAL after some discussion in the Yahoo Group for Tunisian Crochet Kim co-owns with aRNIE Grabowski, while it is a good pattern, but some of the language is a bit “old school” so can cause some difficulty for today’s crochet enthusiast.
Kim has announced that she will be conducting the crochet-along in the CrochetKimCAL. If you are already a member of that YahooGroup, you need do nothing. If you are not a member and would like to participate, you will need to visit the link and request membership.
Knowing one of the “Gotcha’s” for vintage patterns is they were written (as are many today) in support of a specific yarn and yarns come and go so it is sometimes not easy to “get the details quickly. With this in mind, using an early (7th ) and the current (53rd) editions of Valuable Knitting Information to get the necessary yarn details.
This vintage pattern wants
Bear Brand Win-Sport yarn
Sport Weight with 235 yards,
Pattern Gauge is 7 STI
(28 across 10cm/4 in)
What concerns me is that the same pattern gauge the yarn label give for “knitting gauge”. It is true Tunisian is somewhat heavier than knitting, although not as much as standard crochet. I think swatching will be a definite requirement even with a perfectly matched yarn and possibly even fulling the swatch to be sure the fabric is acceptable.
Another reason to swatch is the pattern suggests an E (US Size) hook. D & E have changed over the years so for vintage patterns I compared the chart of the covers of the 7th and 53rd editions VKI (which are the same) as well as my own Hook Chart If, as the knitting gauge suggests, a 3.5mm is needed, then, depending on when and where your hook was made, it might be considered either a D or an E. (the CYC places this as a D, but Clover, Pony and Boye and Bates all suggest this as an E)
Still, ultimately the BearBrand Win-Sport drops nicely into the CYC No 1 – Fingering Yarn Category – near the top but within range in my own Yarn Label Reference Chart
My plan to swatch using Arucania’s Ranco – a sock yarn Although a bit heavier with a knit gauge of 6 STI, it should not be all that difficult to adjust a bit. I will likely use similar concepts as those shown in the WikiHow WikiHow for sizing
If these get done, then I think it will be fun to also make a cowl to keep my neck and shoulders warn while computing, who knows maybe even matching socks – maybe even in time for next winter
But first the search for the “perfect hook” for this project.
One of the often asked questions is how long to make a scarf.
One answer is “until you run out of yarn” but that is not really helpful
If you know the adult who will be receiving the scarf, then either a scarf as long as they are tall for a scarf that will generally fall about 1/2 way between waist and neck
Keep in mind that I personally like long scarves (sharing the lover of long flowing scarves with Isadore Duncan) – I prefer to use height plus 18in ( 45cm) for a scarf that falls at the waist or slightly longer.
I also find this works well for children, giving adequate length to tie the scarf and a bit of length for use as they grow taller.
If you don’t know the details of the recipient (as often happens with charity projects) I suggest 72in-180cm – may not fall to the waist but should be long enough to go around the neck at least once and still fill in the neck of a coat or jacket.
For a Fashion scarf, 45in/110cm would be a minimum, but I think at least 48in/122cm is better
If you plan to use the currently trendy noose style, then you may want to make your scarf at least 60in-150cm.
Last but not least, remember, a shawl is really just wide scarf although I think the minimum for an adult should be at least 60in/150cm.
I use these lengths for all techniques – Crochet, Knit or Handwoven.
Okay, YES I am now selling yarn in our on-line store. And this is, to a VERY small degree related to that… but, it is more about getting your feedback – who knows if I will ever find the time to implement it.
One of the challenges for those new to design is the availability of yarn “other than” using your 40% coupons at JoAnn’s Michael’s etc.
Sure there is eBay and if you have enough street cred to have built a relationship with a particular yarn distributor.
As the economy has tightened, so have the ability of the non-Chain yarn distributors to provide yarns for sampling. In fact, maybe 90% of the time I actually buy sample skeins at retail.
From another seat at this table, retailers often have a problem with odd skeins from dye lots they can no longer match. (I have this constantly increasing box from where someone purchased 8 or 9 skeins and am left with only one of a dye lot.)
Then there is the problem not quite salable as new from returns, or torn labels or slightly underweight because someone thought it would okay to use a few yards from the skein to finish a project and then return it or other instances that cause me to refrain from selling at full price.
Additionally, for those whose only access to yarn is “on-line” how do we are today’s retailers respond to the need of the Yarn users who want to try “Yarn Shop Yarns” but still would like to obtain sample skeins to interview the yarns before committing to a major purchase.
I know this will not be quite as easy at it seems “to keep up” but I am wondering if it is something even worth doing because of the investment of time and energy required.
“your thoughts”
Wheat
who is STILL in search of an independent toe-up crocheted sock
pattern that can be used “for promotional purchases” – The pattern
author will get paid but the consumer will get the pattern with the
purchase of certain yarns.
I generally try very hard NOT express an opinion about the best hook(s), still, every week people keep asking. With this in mind, please let me share what works for Wheat and Why.
In answer to a few emails, The flat taper or rounded point is easier on my hands. It gives one the “point” needed to more easily enter the stitches but is less likely to split the yarn plies. Also, this rounded point/taper is not sharp enough to hurt/puncture your fingers – really a pain to get blood out of the fibers. 
Hooks and the type you choose to use is a VERY personal decision Everyone wants a good value for their dollar so that is a given. After that, some look for the least expensive, some look for utility, some look for beauty and last but least some look to economic impact. You will need to decide which combination works for your circumstances. 
Beginning with 2000 New Year resolution (I only make one a year) my decision was that with very rare exceptions, there was no need in my home or business for products that did not create US Jobs. It would have been unrealistic to say only made in the USA but I do try to find those products and it is amazing how much you really don’t need if you choose that path and take care of what you have so it “lasts”. 
And yes, I did give in once to vanity – I have a set of the Pony Rosewood – don’t use them much, they are pretty to look at. 
In answer to a few emails, The flat taper or rounded point is easier on my hands. It gives one the “point” needed to more easily enter the stitches but is less likely to split the yarn plies. Also, this rounded point/taper is not sharp enough to hurt/puncture your fingers – really a pain to get blood out of the fibers. 
Knowing one of the “Gotcha’s” for vintage patterns is they were written (as are many today) in support of a specific yarn and yarns come and go so it is sometimes not easy to “get the details quickly. With this in mind, using an early (7th ) and the current (53rd) editions of 
Arucania’s Ranco – a sock yarn Although a bit heavier with a knit gauge of 6 STI, it should not be all that difficult to adjust a bit. I will likely use similar concepts as those shown in the WikiHow