February 11th, 2007 at 04:10 am
One of the most commonly asked questions about Perle Cotton for use in Thread Crochet has to do with a size
“Cross-Reference”
Because Presencia threads are among my personal favorites I use them as the basis of my comparison/reference charts.
So many things can effect how a thread “measures” (Humidity, spinning, storage, how it is “put up”) that is next to Impossible – While not exact, since sizing differs between Perle & Crochet threads, the following is a “ROT-Rule Of Thumb”.
(added 2008)It is very important to know that there are DIFFERENT “standards” for Wool, Cotton, Linen & Silk. The chart below is specific to Cotton since that is the most common thread used by Crochets
| Wheat’s US-Metric Steel Crochet Hook Reference*
Last Updated: 2008-12-10 © 2000-2008 WheatCarr |
R o w 0 |
Col 1 Crochet Cotton Range |
Col 2 Steel MM |
Col 3 Clover |
Col 4 Clover Soft Touch |
Col 5 Pony |
Col 6 Boye |
Col 7 Bates |
Col 8 Inox |
Col 9 tulip Skacel |
R o w |
| 1 |
– |
0.40mm |
– |
– |
– |
– |
– |
No 16 |
No 24 |
1 |
| 2 |
– |
0.45mm |
– |
– |
– |
– |
– |
– |
No 23 |
2 |
| 3 |
80-100 |
0.50mm |
– |
No 14 |
– |
– |
– |
No 15 |
No 14 |
3 |
| 4 |
– |
0.55mm |
– |
– |
– |
– |
– |
– |
No 13 |
4 |
| 5 |
70 – 80 |
0.60mm |
No 12 |
No 12 |
No 14 |
– |
– |
No 14 |
No 12 |
5 |
| 6 |
– |
0.70mm |
– |
– |
No 13 |
– |
– |
– |
No 11 |
6 |
| 7 |
50 – 80 |
0.75mm |
No 10 |
No 10 |
No 12 |
No 14 |
– |
No 13 |
No 10 |
7 |
| 8 |
– |
0.85mm |
– |
– |
no-name |
No 13 |
– |
– |
No 9 |
8 |
| 9 |
40 – 60 |
0.90mm |
No 8 |
No 8 |
no-name |
– |
No 14 |
– |
No 8 |
9 |
| 10 |
– |
0.95mm |
– |
– |
– |
– |
No 13 |
– |
No 7 |
10 |
| 11 |
20 – 30 |
1.00mm |
No 6 |
No 6 |
no-name |
No 12 |
No 12 |
No 12 |
No 6 |
11 |
| 12 |
– |
1.05mm |
– |
– |
– |
– |
No 11 |
– |
– |
12 |
| 13 |
– |
1.10mm |
– |
– |
– |
No 11 |
– |
– |
No 5 |
13 |
| 14 |
– |
1.15mm |
– |
– |
– |
– |
No 10 |
– |
|
14 |
| 15 |
18 – 30 |
1.25mm |
No 4 |
No 4 |
No 8 |
– |
No 9 |
No 10 |
No 4 |
15 |
| 16 |
– |
1.30mm |
– |
– |
– |
No 10 |
– |
– |
No 3 |
16 |
| 17 |
– |
1.40mm |
– |
– |
– |
No 9 |
No 8 |
– |
– |
17 |
| 18 |
10 – 20 |
1.50mm |
No 2 |
No 2 |
No 7 |
No 8 |
No 7 |
No 8 |
No 2 |
18 |
| 19 |
– |
1.60mm |
– |
– |
– |
– |
No 6 |
– |
No 1 |
19 |
| 20 |
– |
1.65mm |
– |
– |
– |
No 7 |
– |
– |
– |
20 |
| 21 |
– |
1.70mm |
– |
– |
– |
– |
No 5 |
– |
– |
21 |
| 22 |
8 – 18 |
1.75mm |
No 0 |
No 0 |
No 4 |
– |
No 4 |
No 6 |
No 0 |
22 |
| 23 |
– |
1.80mm |
– |
– |
– |
No 6 |
– |
– |
– |
23 |
| 24 |
– |
1.90mm |
– |
– |
– |
No 5 |
– |
– |
– |
24 |
| 25 |
– |
2.00mm |
– |
A-0 |
– |
– |
– |
No 4 |
2/0 |
25 |
| 26 |
– |
2.20mm |
– |
– |
– |
– |
– |
No 16 |
3/0 |
26 |
| 27 |
– |
2.25mm |
– |
– |
2/o |
– |
– |
– |
– |
27 |
| 28 |
– |
2.30mm |
– |
B-1 |
– |
– |
B |
– |
– |
28 |
| 29 |
– |
2.50mm |
– |
– |
3/o |
– |
– |
– |
4/0 |
29 |
R o w 0 |
Col 1 Crochet Cotton Range |
Col 2 Steel MM |
Col 3 Clover |
Col 4 Clover Soft Touch |
Col 5 Pony |
Col 6 Boye |
Col 7 Bates |
Col 8 Inox |
Col 9 tulip Skacel |
R o w |
* Based on Data Current as of February 2007,
updated to add photos on 2007-May-02
updated to add Tulip on 2007-May-24
updated to add on 2008-Sep-14
* Thread Hook Size Suggestions used courtesy of Clover® Needlecraft, Inc
* ALWAYS MAKE A GAUGE SWATCH
* ALWAYS check/measure the diameter of your hook
– Older Hooks often do NOT have the same Diameter as those made today.
–
* If you find an error, please do email me with the correction.
|
Average Yards per pound is how many yards of thread you would get on a one-pound cone.
If you have a large project, buying coned yarns can be very economical.
Most balls of crochet cotton seem to have about 400-450 yds
So using an old J&P Coats pattern which called for J&P COATS Size 20: (GREEN LABEL) 24 balls of White or Ecru. which, according to a Trademark infringement case:
” which is wound on spools of 200- yard lengths, “
This project calls about 4800 yards of Size 20 thread. If you selected some commonly available size 20 thread at the best price I could fine “on-line” you would need at least 12 balls at $3.27 – add in one ball to be sure you have enough, and the shipping so call it $45.
Now if you bought 2# of one of my favorite 10/2 Mercerized Cottons from WEBS
Even the Varigated is only $18.95 per pound
so for $40 you not only have plenty for project, you save at least $5 and have extra for “something else.
and you would save even more if your total order of discountables (did I mention I have not very often not qualified for at least the 20% discount
In case you haven’t guessed, WEBS is a long time (been a customer for more than 30 years) favorite place to shop.
In fact, I have been know to drive 150 miles (each way) OUT of the way to visit them
They have a famous back room. Think Wholesale club like Sam’s or Costco, but all yarn “buys” – the first time I went there, they gave me a stupid market size shopping cart and pushed me thru the door, “See you in a few hours – we’ll holler when its close to closing time” Mind you this was at 10am and yes, I was there to be hollered at (although we did leave for lunch and come back for round two)
HTH
Wheat
P.S. I promise to add the WPI as soon as I find where I put that piece of paper
If you have different information, please share, there is no such thing as too much information when it comes to the materials and tools we all love to use.
February 6th, 2007 at 09:14 am
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Just a quick note to “officially” welcome one of my favorite Crochet Designer/Teachers and good friend
Darla Fanton to the world of blogs
I hope you will visit her soon and encourage her as she launches her Blog-A-Ventures.
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January 31st, 2007 at 14:35 pm
So yesterday, I wrote about what felting is, and promised to go on to what you really are doing when using the “felting” needles to push fibers thru some other material.
Needle Punching, or as it is currently probably better know, Miniature Punch Needle Embroidery, for a long time. Not, perhaps as long as felting, but “pretty close”.
| Since you already know that Clover is one of my favorite Needle Crafts Tool makers, so here is the obligatory “tool picture” – As with all their products, The Clover Punch Embroidery tool works well for 95% of what I want to do and is reasonably priced.
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Needle punching is pushing something from one side of a ground cloth to another. On a larger scale, you may be familiar with the Rug making techniques such as Hooking (PULLING the fabric or yarn or other material from the front/right side facing you or PRODDING, which is PUSHING from back – right side away from you.
When you try to “Needle Felt” with fabric, yarns or threads that do not have the necessary follicles to twist, tangle, mesh and compact, you can’t felt. So you are PUNCHING.
Punching is a WONDERFUL way to embellish, you just need to understand that for a wearable or other object that will be “used” – you will need to use some of the many techniques which exist to “stabilize” the loops/threads/bits of everything from Angelina to Zoo sheddings of needle punching, such as iron-on fusibles or special glues even sometimes for punch needle embroidery, just packing the threads tightly. Without these measures, if you pull on the yarn, thread or even fibers, unless they are able to be felted, they will pull out and frankly “rather easily”.
Part III will be about the tools I use “most of the time”
HTH
Wheat
January 29th, 2007 at 09:07 am
Playing yet another Name Game,
It would seem I am possessed this year with this whole “what’s in a name thing”
But I really prefer when correct names are used unless one is intending to be Entertaining (i.e., I call my blog entries, Blog-A-Mentaries and fellow Blog writers, Blog-A-Venturers, cause you never know what is going to happen.
So, while the introduction over the last few years of attachments and machines – has been great
EXCEPT the almost epidemic of misuse of the functions served by these tools, it is just making me somewhat crazy
Felting is the process by which the follicles found on WOOL (from many animal/protein fibers, but most easily Sheep) are somehow encouraged to wrap around each other.
For WET Felting, there are basically three things needed.
1. A Solution (soapy water works best, but you can do it with even Tap Water) so that the fibers can be encouraged to expand making the follicles “stand out” a bit.
2. Agitation, so they can be encouraged to wrap around each other.
3. Finally Temperature Change, so those expanded follicles not only go back to their original “closed”, but are “set” in their new twisted, meshed, compacted configuration.
DRY Felting, although much less messy and requiring a fair bit more work, essentially tries to do the same thing, but without water/solutions.
Dry Felting is accomplished by the pushing and PULLING of those follicles by the tiny barbs on “felting needles” – creating tangling so that the necessary twisting, meshing and as a result, compacting of the fiber into some form of fabric or 3D shape like my little friend Piccolo pictured here.
Now I know it has become “politically correct” to refer to thread as Fibers, but I do not. WHY because Fibers are really what makes up a yarn or thread or FELT fabric before it undergoes any sort of spinning process to create yarn and threads.
Bottom line …
without that twisting/tangling/meshing compacting you are not making Felt,
you are not Needle FELTING
So what are you doing? Felting, Punching or A Combination, better called
Embellishing & XPressing yourself
Check back in a day or two.
January 26th, 2007 at 06:05 am
What’s in a name …
and would it really smell so sweet by any other name …
I don’t think so, although it is kinda cool to refer to ourselves as designers, more and more lately I have been questioning that self-designation.
If there is one particular black hole (did I ever mention my life long fascination with all things cosmic?)
in cyberspace where I can easily get lost for hours, it would be Style.com’s fashion show collections
I always emerge wondering, not only am I really qualified to claim the title, and what about all the submission that cross my desk?
So what is design? Design, according to Wikipedia,
is usually considered in the context of the applied arts, engineering, architecture, and other such creative endeavours, is used as both a noun and a verb. As a verb, “to design” refers to the process of originating and developing a plan for a product, structure, or component.
and then goes on to say:
As a noun, “a design” is used for both the final (solution) plan (e.g. proposal, drawing, model, description) or the result of implementing that plan (e.g. object produced, result of the process). …
Wikipedia defines Designer as
a broad term for a person who designs any of a variety of things. That usually implies the task of creating or of being creative in a particular area of expertise. It is frequently used to reference someone who draws or in some ways uses visual cues to organize their work. Designers are usually responsible for making a model that takes into consideration each step in a product’s development, including not only how a product will be used but also how it will be made.
Which leads to the final paragraph under Designer:
Designing normally requires a designer considering aesthetic, functional, and many other aspects of an object or process, which usually requires considerable research, thought, modeling, interactive adjustment, and re-design.
Which now has me asking, almost daily and sometimes hourly, not only of every piece I do “for me” but of any that “will be published”
It that pattern or project the work of a Designer or an Alteration Specialist?
Or something else?
Just something to think about – I certainly will be – and who knows, maybe writing more about it.
Wheat
P.S. Am I the only one who thinks the folks at Alexander McQueen may have over reacted just a bit to either Phantom of the Opera, or the current controversy over the responsiblity of the Fashion Designers to discourage eating disorders. I mean several of those dresses are perfect examples of why I don’t wear dancercise clothes out side my own home or backyard (and not very often in the back yard either)