October 4th, 2011 at 00:57 am
It is always amazing how one discussion leads to another. What started in Crochet Partners as a request for suggestion on wool for a toddler hat, evolved into some great comments on felting.
One of the best was a very basic summary of how to felt, by machine.
And I thank Marty for reminding me of a Tiplet I wanted to share during the last felting discussion.
It is one of those things you pick up when you come at something from a different direction.
So many new people have come to felting by way of Knit or Crochet – that they may have never really learned the basics the way a traditional felter, spinner or weaver does.
I have never quite understood why so many people seem to need to do multiple “washing” – in fsct almost every set of directions you read relating to felting Knit or Crochet, seems to mention multiple runs thru their machine.
So WHY is that not the case for me ?!*? Well, sometimes literally is something in the water, but that effects dying and bread rising more often than not.
So in that “semi conscious” time of the morning, I suddenly realized that what was missing from most if not all of the commonly available instructions for “Machine Felting” of Knot or Crochet (or wovens for that matter) as PRE-Soaking –
Both Felting and Kool-Aid Dyeing require you to presoak, in lukewarm is best, for at least 30 minutes. This helps to get all the fibers possible “opened” and thus more likely to felt or accept the dye.
For felting, my usual method is to fill a bucket with warm to almost hot water in the slop sink next to the washing machine about 1/2 full. Give it a squirt of my “ivory soap” liquid, stir and then use a long dowel or wooden spoon to gently submerge the item. I “weight it” to it stay under water with a heavy dinner plate.
If it won’t stay down, Jaquie Carey’s acrylic covered Kumihimo bobbins add weight to the plate and since they are completely covered in a relatively non-reactive coating (as may be some others).
After about 10 minutes, with the plate still in place, Add a tea kettle of hot water – pour it slowing over the plate so that you are not hitting the fibers directly with the changed temperature.
When the water reaches room temp, the fibers should be nice and open and you are ready to add it to the wash, draining option. We have an unfinished floor with the drain located near the slop sink, so no matter if it gets a bit sloppy. I like to add a sneaker or two to help with the agitation part of the process.
Wash on Hot, Rinse on Cold and you get your temperature change. Some advise to check on the piece from time to time, but admittedly I do not. Instead I am careful to be there when the spin ends so I can remove and shape the project before putting it into the dryer. That is when I do check it about every 15 minutes – shaping if needed, until dry.
Pre-Soaking KA – Mix the Kool-Aid into rather warm water, add the yarn or fibers (again making sure they are submerged, same tricks but usually smaller plate will work.) Soak for about 15-30 minutes until water cools. Now follow whatever felting works best for you.
Here is the link to the first of my Kool-Aid articles or use the Kool-Aid Category.
Enjoy The Making
Wheat
October 3rd, 2011 at 12:20 pm
As far as I can see, the return on the investment known as US Foreign aid has bought us nothing but hurt.
I do firmly believe that IF someone wants to make charitable efforts outside the country that makes it possible for them to do, that is their right and privilege.
So if Brangelina want to make life better for those in Africa instead of South LA, it is their money to spend as they wish.
But NOT so the US Government.
Instead
-restore the tax benefits so that once again there is a reason for the kind of Corporate support that so advance the Arts in the USA
– make it EASIER for individual and businesses to be good neighbors
– stop all foreign aid – and take all that money being used to help fund attacks on the USA, and use it for Small Business and Development loans and Disaster Relief within the US.
– Use tax credits and Right to Work laws to encourage companies to bring back their jobs and update their facilities lying dormant.
If we must buy raw materials, fine, but let’s see if we can bring them to the US.
– Let’s make it a REQUIREMENT that all Government goods and services from Medical Transcripton to clothing for out armed forces, MUST be awarded to US Companies PRODUCING the product or service in this COUNTRY.
Isn’t really about time we considering possibly having less so that we can make it possible for each of us, individual or company to help our neighbors instead of our enemies.
Just one of those things that runs thru my head pretty much every day.
Obviously all those things will take time, but in the meantime,
Let’s stop buying off shore on eBay and support the jobs for those same products that are helping to pay the salaries of our own citizens.
Let’s fuel our economy with oil and natural gas found inside our borders.
Let’s make it clear to the Wal-Marts that we are willing to pay an extra dollar for a shirt made in the USA instead of putting an entire town out of work over 50 cents.
Let’s stop defending everyone else’s borders so that there is safe haven for terrorista and bring our armed forces home and use those funds to protect our borders.
Let’s stop selling to our enemies and limits sales of technology and raw materials to our friends.
My personal goal is find at least ONE item each month that is either “Made In America” or is helping to support US Jobs
Here is just one:
– Buddy Jeans and Texas Jeans
And oh yeah, lets elect state and federal legislators and executives willing to put America first and take us back to a country where the concept of a Hand Up and further denigrate our citizens by only giving hand outs.
Okay rant over …. for the moment
July 24th, 2011 at 07:51 am
Not Knook but Knit With Crochet Hooks
Caveat: I am lazy, I sell Stuff, so when I need a picture for a visual reference, likely as not I will like to information in my on-line store. Whether you choose to buy from me or not, at least you will know what the #@$% thing looks like.
The question that often comes up regarding use of double ended crochet hooks – what I call “Straights” – is can they be used for Knitting With A Crochet Hook.
It is not really possible to “Knook” with a single straight hook, not impossible, but not worth the effort and since you would STILL have to attach a cord in order to have the “second needle” Really brings us back to how just about every modern beginner spinner tries to make yarn out of dryer lint, — well what’s the point
As an added resource, I have a YahooGroup – KNITTING with Crochet hook,
where you can see examples of the modified hooks commonly used for this technique. Lots of helpful stuff in our files and all skill levels are welcomed.
The Magic technique is a great way to come to understand knit stitches, although it would not be my first choice – In The Attic Flexible Looms are much better for that.
Tunisian is, in my opinion, the “best bridge” no matter which direction – Crochet to Knit, Knit to Crochet. Much about Tunisian is remarkably close to “Continental/German/PICKING” style of holding Knit Needles and Yarn – Tunisian’s best YahooGroup is aptly called TunisianCrochet
What I have been know to call “Crochet Continental” (okay I drip too much coffee) is what I have been doing this for years since finding double ended flexible and circular crochet hooks. The hand position and use of the non-dominant hand pointer finger to control and “place” the yarn in the Contentiental/Picker method.
Interweave’s Knitting Daily had an excellent article about Pickers vs Throwers
http://www.knittingdaily.com/blogs/daily/archive/2009/09/09/how-we-knit-throwing-or-picking.aspx” “target=”_blank
Once “discovered” has always made more sense to me – proving yet again, that what we learn first is going to be what we are most likely to be comfortable doing.
Certainly, had the first first (make that the first dozen or so) who attempted to teach me to knit, used continental I am fairly certain I would have “gotten it” several decades sooner.
Kim Guzman http:
recently “credited” me with doing research into this topic. If far too many hours of trial and error, with the most common result being turning the air blue with my ability to swear in multiple languages, then yes, I had have done some research.
It has been my experience that
80cm/32 inch length of the Pony Double ended
http:
works well for almost everything, however, when a larger than 6.50mm tip is needed, or when a longer or shorter cord is more appropriate, then the CrochetDenise system works quite well.
The bottom line is, just as we should select Materials and Tools apppropriate to the project – we also need to use the technique or combination of techniques that will give us a final product we will be happy about
After All, The Idea IS To
Enjoy The Making
Wheat
Wheat Carr
Shop: http://www.ItsAllJustString.com
Read: Wheat Wrote WHAT!?!: http://www.wheatcarr.com
July 14th, 2011 at 17:13 pm
As most know, I can be a real PIA about technique and proper respect for traditions, but when it comes to materials, seem willing to try pretty much anything
Never forget my motto: If It Bends, It Braids
Not unlike the new spinner who is willing to try everything including at least one shot at Dryer Lint. NOTE: Does not spin into anything usable, definitely not a braiding option.
Non-Standard disclaimer, although I have sold and still do sell most of these, that has little to do with anything beyond if I did not like them, I would not sell them. These are tools and techniques I use and have in my personal stash.
Hemp can be very iffy – IF the hemp you use is intended for Macrame, then likely it was too stiff. You will want to find a finer thread and may need to treat it like linen, which does require some additional preparation and finishing to soften it a bit. There are some hemps for weaving and knit and crochet which are softer, but not something I use very often for braids.
A popular Practice product is Satin Cord – for the geeks among us (yes pots, kettles, etc) Satin is not a type of material, it is a weave structure that can be made in many materials, traditionally silk, sometimes cotton and other “could be shiny materials” In this case Satin is the type of woven fabric which is being used to cover a core.
There was a time when all Satin cording were made from silks, now they are mostly nylon (made in the USA) or polyester (made in China, etc). The core is usually a cotton or cotton poly or poly piping. It principal use is for embellishment for home dec, but that has never stopped the beaders, braiders, scrappers, and other crafters among us, from what was that phrase my WWII Vet father liked so much “Appropriated for Better Use”.
The smallest and almost impossible to find is “bug tail” which is .5mm and when you do there is almost no color selection
Petite – Size 0 – aka/ mouse tail is also less available than other sizes,
and approximately 1-1.4mm (don’t ask me why it varies so much – it just does )
Light Weight – Size 1 – sometimes called Rat Tail is about 1.5 to 1.9mm usually “listed” as 2mm because when flattened it is closer to that. More available than Bug or Mouse, but still often limited colorways.
Heavy weight, size 2 – “true” Rat Tail – is near to 3mm – the most commonly available, including often in stores that sell sewing supplies “by the yard”
With very rare exceptions I do not like the look of varigated which, since that range is always either non-existent or limited – I rather like the way BeadSmith’s new product is set up – 4 solids in 3yd pieces in a package.
S-LON (BeadSmith) – C-Lon (CLon) updated 2013-Sep-15
Note added 2014: Along with a change in my feelings about braiding on a disc or plate has come a change in my feelings about SLon (aka/CLon). Since early 2013 I have been working with various weights of these cord as part of jewelry projects, on loom, off loom and of course in braiding.
These are now my personal favorites for use in braiding as bead carriers. For more product information, please visit my SuperLon (S-Lon) Q&A ) opens in a new window.
SLon/CLon do not presently have identical color line and what is often not clear it is that both brands have different “weights” one is similar to a #18 Mastic and the others are like D or E Nymo
S-Lon and C-Lon are primarily beading thread/cords. They will not have the same hand as either cotton, rayon or silk but are somewhat flexible.
Many seem to like this thread when the braid involves beadwork, I am enjoying using the Micro, D and AA for prestringing of beads, on and off loom bead work. In the middle is the Fine, and that is what I am most often using to prestring Japanese and most of the new shapes from the Czechs. I am also ‘mostly” using the Fine weight for on/off loom bead work. The heavier two choices, Bead and macrame in my collection are reserved for bead carrier in many projects.
For a better beginning, and in just about every “non-sample of pattern” braid, I like to use either FlexRite or SoftFlex as a core where the desired result is NOT to fatten the braid. With proper planning, this can make the finishing of the braid much more professional looking. (tutorial eventually)
Most bead shops and many fiber business carry both – sometimes I do and sometimes I don’t
Another fiber I like is Asian Knotting Cords. These are braided cords, in diameters similar to the Satin Cord – although availability and colors are often a problem. I prefer the .8 but kept a supply of the 1.3 for knotting purposes particularly 6 of the 8 Clover Asian Knot templates seem happier with the thicker cord.
RAYON BUNDLES/aka BIRON
Biron is a wonderful Japanese product, about the only current importer for Biron in the USA would be Braidershand. Jacqui Carey in the UK has carried Biron in the past and today offers a Japanese Rayon called SHIRUKKU but as Jacqui notes in her very practical way, if you just say Biron, braiders will know what you are talking about.
As possible substitute, many of us use Rayon MACHINE (its finer) embroidery thread – You can find these in sewing and fabric stores, there are many brands and which will best suit your needs will be determined by “trial & error” My preference has always been Robison-Anton,
For quick warps – I personally like Presencia’s El Molino which is a
multi strand 100% Rayon divisible floss with a really soft hand in the finished braids.
For fine threads to make bundles similar to Biron, i prefer Presencia or Robison Anton Rayons and for metallics, either YLI’s Metallic or the J-Metallic threads when there is a greater need to satisfy the magpie in us all.
When Wools seems to be called for and as I continue to work my way thru Makiko-san’s 2nd Treatise -n Andean Braid,I have been using several different lace weight yarns, most recently Ella Rae Lace Merino and am looking forward to the new Juniper Moon yarn, Findley which is a Merino/Silk blend. The other wool I have been using is Araucania’s Ranco Sock.
For the Wool braider (and I have been working my way thru Makiko Tada’s Comprehensive Treatise of Braids Vol II – Andean Braids Madeira’s Burmilana Machine Embroidery Thread is ideal – in my opinion. Burmilana is comparable to a SEWING 12 wt thread (not identical to a cotton 12wt mercerized cotton, but close) and is lovely 50/50 wool acrylic blend and offers a huge range of colors. It is not really “in the budget” for my personal stash but for this book’s projects, well there other things I can live without. So I practice the braids with cotton floss and make the “final sample” in Burmilana.
For Cottons, I have been using Sullivan’s or Presencia Floss (pretty much opposite ends of the price spectrum – Since Sullivan’s got the production issues settled nicely, even with only a bit more than 400 colors it is a good and economical choice –
For making up a quick and thick warp for practice, I was really please when KFI decided to bring back my favorite cotton – was King Tut (not to be confused with Superior’s cotton thread) under the Ella Rae brand as Phoenix.
Hopefully it will do well and they will expand the colors. Meanwhile for Braid Anatomy its 24 colors is adequate and there are several shades of each primary/secondary so interested visual can effect.
I have used a lot of pearl cottons in all the sizes (3,5,8,12,16) but just don’t like the hand of the finished braids and they are not thick enough – guess I will just have eBay what is hanging about,
Sullivan’s new metallics floss really stunned me with its gentle hand and I am rather liking the samples of their new perle/pearl cotton line – so looking forward to seeing it in person at the trade show next month.
I wish my personal budget allowed for the Silk and Biron bundles but it does not.
Braiding with yarn and wire are, for the most part, a topic for another day and at least so far as the wire is concerned, I am sort of waiting to see what happens now that Beadalon bought Artistic. In the past have found that Artistic Wire in the 30 gauge works nicely “most of the time”. (NOTE: 2014-Look for more info in Summer 2014 when we hope to be introducing a new product specifically for braiding with wire and “really heavy threads” _
Now if I could just remember who borrowed my day stretcher so there would be enough time to both get stuff into the catalog AND spend more time with pretty stuff running thru my fingers….
Enjoy the Making.
Wheat
P.S. Carol Franklin’s Braidweaver.com, has some really excellent tips for Braiders, my favorite is to use multiple spools and then warp many threads with each pass.
P.S.Jr – Jan 2914 updated some details, made typo corrections
Look for a major rewrite in summer 2014 – and of course a section in the new forum for discussion.
June 12th, 2011 at 10:51 am
My friendship with Jean dates back decades.
While it is often mentioned her significant contributions to Crochet …
It is well worth mentioning how much she has given to ALL segments of the industry.
Leisure Arts & American School of Needlework under her guidance probably MADE the craft industry possible.
Name a fiber activity and Jean was right there ready to encourage the budding independent designers and authors – generous to a fault with her time and talent,
After Leisure, Jean, with Rita Weiss created “Creative Partners” continuing thier individual and joint contributions.
Take a moment when you can and read just the brief summary of her life in the Needle Arts Industry and look at the wide range of her contributions to all niches.
http://www.creativepartnersllc.com/About_Us.html
On a personal level, Jean has been one of the most supportive individuals on the planet to me over the past few years as I dealt with issues related to my own health issues and my mother’s final illness and recent death.
Just a year since the death of Kim Crews Barnett – it seems we are losing far too many, too soon of the wonderful people who have worked to make these hobbies available to us.
Please hold her in your heart as well as here family and friends
