It never ceases to amaze me how the simplest and seemingly most straight forward of situations can evolve into an ethical dilemma.

In this case. someone is searching for a pattern.
It is in an out of print book
Someone else, who probably had the best of intentions,
but with no clue to the intended consequences of their actions…
Reverse engineers the pattern –
An “okay’ thing IF their own use – not distribution
Not when that derivative pattern is “shared” in many places.
(a blatant violation of copyright in ALL the countries involved Japan, USA, UK)
So now, abetted by the services posting/hosting the “Free Download” violated international law, The Geneva Convention.

And the moral dilemma, well, should I also abet the IP Violation by tell the searcher how to find the improperly shared patterns – justifying with “well then they will like me”
or rationalizing “The damage is already done, so why not”

Or, like our parents always said, “If they were going to jump off a bridge, would you do that just because they already had”.

So I really want to know,
What Would You Do?
How would you handle the situation
and why would you choose that method.

I look forward to your thoughts here, or on Like: FaceBook

Enjoy The Making
Wheat

MAIL: Wheat@ItsAllJustString.com
Read: Wheat Wrote WHAT! http://www.WheatCarr.com
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There are more possible ways to start a project, but the two most commonly know are the “tradtional” Base Chain

Base Chain, aka/ The Base Row From Hell, is something to get past. It causes everyone issues from time to time and probably is responsible for 90% of those who give up on Crochet. You may not be surprised to find that I do not think using a large hook for the chain is a good solution. IMNHO it creates more problems than it solves and makes a sloppy edge – but if it works for you and you are happy with the result who am I to judge?

As an alternative, many of us use Chainless Foundations whenever possible, there are situations when it is not right for the project (thankfully not too many ) There exceptions to the following, but fewer than you might thing – so relax and learn to enjoy the anticipation of getting past the base chain.

But whichever method you choose, a traditional Base or Foundationless chain, be sure to leave a “Tail Marker”

Somewhere along the line I began using the phrase “Tail Marker” Later, in an attempt at discretion “Kite String” – although either can be appropriately descriptive, depends on the age and life experience/attitude of the student – trust me one has to be aware of possible urban connotations when volunteering in an inner city after school program or lots of other places – although the gentleman at the VA did find it amusing when I keep telling then not to forget their piece of tail)

Whether you must use a Base Chain or can use the Chainless Foundation, START with a Chain that is longer.

How much longer will depend on the project and your planned finishing style. If you are working a traditional base chain, it may not be the end of the world – still, if you counted wrong, you don’t have to rip back to add more. When one compares the cost of a yard of yarn with the value of the time to rip and rework – it is an excellent trade off

When the project requires the use of a Base Chain I always make the chain long enough to support at least two or three motifs. So if the Motif requires 6+2, I will make the chain at least an extra 18 or so links.
Aside from counting wrong for the pattern, because of variation in personal gauge, you have feel at the end of that first row it really needs to be a motif or two wider

The excess links now serve as my “marker” for RS/WS – Right Side/Wrong Side aka: FS/BS – Front Side/Back Side .

Determining RS/WS, often difficult for those who crochet, as the work may appear the same on both sides. It is very helpful when a project has been set aside. With the TAIL MARKER, you have a quick reference to get restarted in the correct direction.

It does not matter if you are left or right handed, the principle is the same. The Tail Marker should always be on the same side – since I am mostly right hand dominant, the tail will be on my LEFT when the Right side is facing me .

The CHAINLESS FOUNDATION

For those who may have difficulty with CHAINLESS FOUNDATION “counts” the Tail Marker serves to make it much easier to see where the first stitch of your Chainless work begins.

Once you have the concept that the Chainless Foundation is both your BASE CHAIN and YOUR FIRST ROW , it becomes easier to grasp that you now work a turning chain as directed in your pattern at the end of the direct row, turn your work and continue.

If you enjoy experimenting with stitch motifs squares worked in the round, the Tail Maker will help you to avoid accidentally placing the “wrong” up as you

When working in the round, as one does for Grannie Squares, the ” Reverse Tail Marker” is made by leaving a tail at the lower corner. How long that should be will depend on what you have planned for “connecting” pieces of your work/project. A Short length of yarn can be used to connect corners – a hand technique in some thread or scrumbling work.

For example, when ready to assemble squares I often use either the illusion of Stained Glass or Attic/Cathedral Windows blocks. To do this each round is usually finished with at least one row of single crochet. By leaving enough yarn to then use my favorite join, that of using a modified SC – Single Crochet, I don’t have to add yarn – which means one less Russian Join or one less knot and end to weave.

I hope you will find the use of a KITE TAIL MARKER helpful whatever style of foundation you choose.

Always Remember The Point Is To Enjoy The Making

Wheat

MAIL: Wheat@ItsAllJustString.com
Read: Wheat Wrote WHAT! http://www.WheatCarr.com
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Common Types of Joins

This needs more work, but here are a few types of joins. And yes, I know it needs illustrations – maybe someday, but it is a place to start for today.

Admitting to a certain amount of AR, I do NOT KNOT. Knots are best left to Knotting, Netting and Macrame. Nor do I “seal” knots with fabric glue. If others find these useful and they are satisfied with the result, that is fine, just not for me.

With any method, you of course will also need to take into consideration repeats in the colorway of the yarn itself – this is particularly important when working with self patterning yarns to avoid disconcerting oddities in the finished project final appearance.

Assuming you have read your pattern thru completely before starting (hint) you may want to use consider which join will work best for your project while making your pattern swatch (hint, hint, often not the gauge swatch)

In reverse order of what I use most often:

The SPIT or often more politely referred to as a FELTED join – is dependent on its fiber content to determine if it is useful for your project in hand. Internet myth/assertion to the contrary. Neither Superwash (wool treated so it can be machine washed without major shrinkage) or Plant based fibers, (cotton, hemp, linen, etc) or man made (acrylic, microfibers, etc) will felt. They may LOOK felted but first time they get stressed (normal wearing or washing) they will come undone. –
I am most likely to use the spit method only when working with Sheeps wool and only for joining the same color.

Sometimes, if only because it is what I was taught by the “Cookie Lady” – a neighbor who taught me to crochet AND who made the world’s best cookies of many many varieties….

Next is layering or feathering. When you still have a yard left (just to make the handling easier) Separate the plys for 6-8 inches by untwisting them. Now “feather” each ply to a different length. It helps if you can pull out the fibers a bit at a time so each ply ends in a point. This I learned from the owner of my first LYS experience (her shop was next to the place we got our school uniforms) Mrs Goldman of Goldman yarns, you can read a bit about her at:

Repeat for the new yarn to be joined. Now match up each ply with the complimentary size, (longest with shortest) by over lapping and twisting each ply together. When all there are twisted, twist all together. This really take longer to type than to do for most 3 ply yarns.
This will work for most yarns, and even for threads.

Last but not least, the second method I learned (about age 6) is the RUSSIAN JOIN. It may be you will find it, as I do, the most useful of all. The RUSSIAN JOIN will generally work with any type of yarn, With a bit of care and an extra step or two, it is possible to place the join rather precisely and this is especially important when color changes are involved.
If you “google” Russian Join – there are dozens of illustrations –

You may have noticed with these three joins – NO KNOTS and NO ENDS TO WEAVE IN!
No ends that will eventually work their way out and lower the quality of your work.

Enjoy The Making
Wheat

MAIL: Wheat@ItsAllJustString.com
Read: Wheat Wrote WHAT! http://www.WheatCarr.com
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Irish Bear Dancing

I generally try very hard NOT express an opinion about the best hook(s), still, every week people keep asking. With this in mind, please let me share what works for Wheat and Why.

I like hooks ends that are tapered or what I call a Flat Taper style mostly produced in India, Japan, Germany & a few other countries. I prefer metal but understand the production issues once you get above 7.00mm as well as the issues for wood in hooks smaller than about 3.75mm

Added: 2013-Mar-17:
In answer to a few emails, The flat taper or rounded point is easier on my hands. It gives one the “point” needed to more easily enter the stitches but is less likely to split the yarn plies. Also, this rounded point/taper is not sharp enough to hurt/puncture your fingers – really a pain to get blood out of the fibers.

Hooks and the type you choose to use is a VERY personal decision Everyone wants a good value for their dollar so that is a given. After that, some look for the least expensive, some look for utility, some look for beauty and last but least some look to economic impact. You will need to decide which combination works for your circumstances.

Hooks are tools, they will be used OVER and OVER. With the exception of a set of the Pony Rosewood, I do not collect them to look pretty on my desk – Others get great enjoyment from such collections and while I often admire the artistry it is just not my thing. Last but not least I choose impact.

Beginning with 2000 New Year resolution (I only make one a year) my decision was that with very rare exceptions, there was no need in my home or business for products that did not create US Jobs. It would have been unrealistic to say only made in the USA but I do try to find those products and it is amazing how much you really don’t need if you choose that path and take care of what you have so it “lasts”.

Yes, many of the hooks, books, and yarns and other products currently available at ItsAllJustString are not made in the USA – BUT they do come to me thru US Distributors and that means US Jobs for US Citizens From Seaman/Sailors, to dock workers, to distributors, to delivery services and oh yeah, independent retailers – brick or click – who, like my family need to pay everyday bills.

It would be my hope that you would choose to support independent retailers and especially those both locally or on line who choose to support your creative passion not only with products they sell, but who share your passion with me for a particular craft and offer their assistance and expertise in your favorite discussion groups. Many, like me, are willing to help you find what you want or need even if we don’t sell it.

So,…. Personal Preference,

I have most of the “old/Made in the USA” Boye hooks, I have all sizes ever offered (including two that have been discontinued so their sizes would match the CYC standard Clover Soft Touch.

All Pony Double Ended in Both Straight and Circular and a set of standard hooks, a mix of metal and plastic to which I added one or two sizes. There is also a box with “onsies” of pretty much every other style and brand offered in the USA –

There are some sizes for the 14″ doubled end straights that we sometimes have from Boye – notably their N hook (depending on when you bought it is either a 9 or 10 mm barrel) There are brands we choose not to offer for a variety of reasons.

And yes, I did give in once to vanity – I have a set of the Pony Rosewood – don’t use them much, they are pretty to look at.

On a day to day basis, among the “stuff” in my purse is one of the Pony Sets – it pretty much covers what I need in case of a Crochet emergency, like swatch yarn at a shop or in case the proper hooks is not with the project I carried along

Repeating, because it is important, Hooks are a very personal decision. Before committing to a big investment, try different styles. Both Denise & Knitters Pride bits can be purchased to create a single unit – make a few things and see if it fits your needs.

I recommend that for standard, fixed length hooks, you get one in a size you often use and for flexible/interchangeable, same thing on size, but with a cable length not included in the standard set if possible. That way if you decide to go with the set later, you will not duplicate the cable lengths and will have an extra hook end in your favorite size.

Enjoy The Making

Wheat
Added: 2013-Mar-17:
In answer to a few emails, The flat taper or rounded point is easier on my hands. It gives one the “point” needed to more easily enter the stitches but is less likely to split the yarn plies. Also, this rounded point/taper is not sharp enough to hurt/puncture your fingers – really a pain to get blood out of the fibers.

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