July 10th, 2013 at 12:22 pm
This day started with a lively telephone conversation with a lovely lady wanting me to accept a pattern return. Her request was based because it required her to have skills she did not. Turns out she had a good case for why I should accept the return.
The Craft Yarn Council’s Yarn Standards for Crochet Skill levels is located at:
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/skill.html
Skill levels have always seemed to be the red-haired step child and for Crochet, One almost needs to be a psychic to figure out what they mean.
Vague descriptions like “using basic stitches” without saying what basic stitches might be is useless.
Thankfully most publishers now make a point of listing the “Stitches Used” and maybe even some instructions – certainly for “special” or “pattern” stitches” – I am quite willing to pretty much go along with the CYC when it comes to using its Crochet Chart Symbols to define Basic Stitches (in you want to know more about where we part company, it is covered in the post for tomorrow BasicStitches-Crochet .
It is my controversial opinion, that IF the Pattern Author gives a SKILL level, and has made it clear what they mean, then it is not reasonable to expect them to change/rewrite a pattern to a lower skill level.
And, if they have failed to make clear what the crocheter must be able to do, then they need to fix their publication format. This is especially true if they self-publish downloadable PDFs.
I also think that beginner patterns should include more instruction (basic stitch illustrations) and thus might need to cost more for printed versions. Again, with Downloads, the printing costs are not a factor for the Pattern Author/Publisher. The Crocheter can choose which if any pages need to be printed out.
One of the reasons the onus is on the Pattern Author is because, in my cluttered mind, Skill level should be defining what you need to be able to do to complete a project that includes various techniques. This does not seem to be the case in the CYC Skill Level definions. And so far, the CYC does not. For example
BEGINNER: CYC says: Projects for first time crocheters using basic stitches – minimal shaping.
Instead I would submit that the BEGINNER Crocheter needs to know how to:
- the SYMBOL and ABBREVIATION for each of the Basic Stitches as well as how to form/make these stitches.
- Basic Stitches about include: ch, sl st, sc, hdc, dc, tc,
- Basic Terminology includes: inc, dec, turn, join, rep and the symbols (if any) associated with them
- Nominal finishing such as at least one method for adding yarn and weaving in ends should be a part of the New/Beginner Crochet Skill level
- Along with Basic Pattern instructional abbreviations such as parenthesis, star/asterisks, daggers, and the symbols (if any associated with them)
EASY CYC says: Projects using yarn with basic stitches, repetitive stitch patterns, simple color changes, and simple shaping and finishing.
- I have long suspected the use of EASY was more about marketing than a level of competency.
I think this would/could be better called “Advanced Beginner” and I find I have used “Enthusiastic or Adventurous Beginner” qute often, because it is someone who has become competent in the Beginner/Basics and want to add to those skills – still relatively simple, but building on the basics.
-
Using a repetitive stitch pattern is certainly one of the most important second step basic skills. Most, could easily accomplish this if they take the time to do an “in pattern” swatch using the “special stitches” or “pattern repeats” contained within the pattern. This swatch allows them to begin the muscle memory building and working out issues such as tension within the motif or repeat.
- The SYMBOL and ABBREVIATION for each of the Basic Stitches, plus, the ability to read and insert a repetitive stitch pattern into a project (what the +# means in a stitch guide), Color changes (building on the adding yarn), simple shaping – someone needs to define shaping – what is minimal (I would say inc/dec) and what is simple – what additional skill/knowledge is needed. and finishing.
- Finishing needs to be defined, I would say basic finishing need to include more than just weaving in ends. It might/should include adding edging – picking up stitches around the pieces that will be combined to finish the project. Easy finishing also should include some methods for putting the pieces.
INTERMEDIATE CYC: Projects using a variety of techniques, such as basic lace patterns or color patterns, mid-level shaping and finishing.
- Intermediate seems to imply that one is able to combine techniques in order to create different textures and appearance within a single project.
- Mid-Level Techniques: particularly “in the round” and at least two of its variations – spiraling and stepping up. Anyone care to suggest some others that would fit here.
- Mid-Level shaping – The only thing that comes to mind is perhaps some ‘entry’ level free forming or the use of a sewing pattern for overall shape but fitting various stitches or stitch motifs into the shape could certain take some intricate shaping.
- Mid-Level Finishing – one word pops up immediately ZIPPERS & Button Plackets. Additionally perhaps including wet finishing, fulling, felting and other techniques that effect the texture and hand of the completed fabric.
EXPERIENCED CYC: Projects with intricate stitch patterns, techniques and dimension, such as non-repeating patterns, multi-color techniques, fine threads, small hooks, detailed shaping and refined
finishing.
- Frankly, I find placing fine threads and small hooks to be unacceptable as only something that can/should be done by an “experienced” crocheter. Historically, fine thread crochet to make laces was really where it all started. Yes, it takes a true love of the craft to work small, but skill levels are still varied.
- Moving on, once one has become competent and comfortable with all the skills need through the Intermediate level you are an experienced crochet and with care and thought should not be afraid to tackle any well written pattern.
Bottom line here, I really welcome and want to hear your ideas about Skill levels as I work toward including them in my Glossary aka/What Wheat MEANT when she said…..
Enjoy The Making
Wheat
CAVEAT: I may not rule the universe, but I reserve the right to disagree, even when “overall” something is valuable. In some cases, my reasons for disagreeing with the Craft Yarn Council is its underwriters are, t quite rightfully, not historically as concerned with many of the qualities (kinds) of yarns most often offered by an independent retailer like me.
That they even attempted to create voluntary standards is certainly to their credit – You might rightfully as this point mention “Pots and Kettles” and oh yes, I do know an Expert is just a drip under pressure… so – always feel free to let me know – publically or privately where I need to fix something and if/why you disagree.
July 9th, 2013 at 08:44 am
Brian Milco, creator of Stitchworks Software (also the programmer, marketing dept, makes the coffee, empties the trash, and pretty much every thing to do with the software I am currently attempting to conquer) shared this tiplet in my yahoogroup for SymbolCrochet
On 7/9/2013 12:22 AM, Brian Milco wrote:
> One tip for creating stitch symbols: If all you need are symbols that are in the library already you can create a motif on a blank chart, export the motif as an svg file and import it into the library as a single symbol. It will scale and change colors just like the other symbols.
And Wheat responded:
I am tattooing this tiplet on the inside of my arm. THANK YOU (and yes I am shouting)
Now off to try it
—
Enjoy The Making
Wheat
yahoogroup for Join SymbolCrochet to learn and share about all forms of crochet including symbols
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July 7th, 2013 at 10:01 am
Pattern Gauge is the gauge that the Pattern Author has designated as what is needed for the project to be “as advertised”
This is technical a draft, but it has the basics covered and eventually I will add to it –
Pattern Gauge is, often as not – DIFFERENT than the LABEL Gauge (the information noted on the yarn label) So you can’t just look at the pattern gauge and know what style of yarn to choose (DK, Worsted, Bulky, etc)
Hopefully the Pattern Author has also included some yarn specifics, for example many of patterns call for lace and fingering weight yarns and use 6mm and larger hooks – not the Label suggestion of 2.23mm to 3.5mm.
Pattern Gauge has a huge effect on the amount of yarn needed to complete the project. One might think that with the many wonderful smorgasbord project – people would be inclined to buy sufficient yarn even if that means a bit leftover. But they don’t and then its gets dicey because that color or dyelot or even that yarn may no longer be around.
So, in addition to the very real issue of yarn needed for the project and how gauge can make that a very painful experience, you know the kind you learn the hard way.
Gauge ALWAYS matters. Size Always Matters In Craft.
GAUGE IS NOT JUST ABOUT SIZE –
it is also about
HAND – the feel of the fabric – if your gauge is off it means your fabric might be too floppy/open to be useful for the project OR conversely, too tight and it is more like armour than a fabric you want to wrap your self in.
SURFACE DESIGN – if you go to the trouble to work pattern motifs, if your gauge is off you may lose the necessary stitch definition needed to make that project all it can be
PATTERN AUTHOR INTENT – Many time the PATTERN GAUGE is not the Same as the LABEL GAUGE and if your goal is to have your project look like the pattern author intended, then you need to swatch to find the combination of yarn and hook that will enable you to meet that expectation.
Now I need to get a started on things like “My Gauge”, Label Gauge, and of course the OCD Swatch.
If you get here from my online store and want to get back – to the main page – click here for ItsAllJustString.com
Originally published as a page in 2013, moved to blog posts 2021-Feb-19
July 1st, 2013 at 14:37 pm
Pattern Gauge is the gauge that the Pattern Author has designated as what is needed for the project to be “as advertised”
This is technical a draft, but it has the basics covered and eventually I will add to it –
Pattern Gauge is, often as not – DIFFERENT than the LABEL Gauge (the information noted on the yarn label) So you can’t just look at the pattern gauge and know what style of yarn to choose (DK, Worsted, Bulky, etc)
Hopefully the Pattern Author has also included some yarn specifics, for example many of patterns call for lace and fingering weight yarns and use 6mm and larger hooks – not the Label suggestion of 2.23mm to 3.5mm.
Pattern Gauge has a huge effect on the amount of yarn needed to complete the project. One might think that with the many wonderful smorgasbord project – people would be inclined to buy sufficient yarn even if that means a bit leftover. But they don’t and then its gets dicey because that color or dyelot or even that yarn may no longer be around.
So, in addition to the very real issue of yarn needed for the project and how gauge can make that a very painful experience, you know the kind you learn the hard way.
Gauge ALWAYS matters. Size Always Matters In Craft.
GAUGE IS NOT JUST ABOUT SIZE –
it is also about
HAND – the feel of the fabric – if your gauge is off it means your fabric might be too floppy/open to be useful for the project OR conversely, too tight and it is more like armour than a fabric you want to wrap your self in.
SURFACE DESIGN – if you go to the trouble to work pattern motifs, if your gauge is off you may lose the necessary stitch definition needed to make that project all it can be
PATTERN AUTHOR INTENT – Many time the PATTERN GAUGE is not the Same as the LABEL GAUGE and if your goal is to have your project look like the pattern author intended, then you need to swatch to find the combination of yarn and hook that will enable you to meet that expectation.
Now I need to get a started on things like “My Gauge”, Label Gauge, and of course the OCD Swatch.
If you get here from my online store and want to get back – to the main page – click here for ItsAllJustString.com or here for the What Wheat MEANT – a glossary.
June 25th, 2013 at 10:35 am
From time to time there are discussions about the use of line counters in conjunction with measuring yardage.
For a series of reasons that TH once spent more than hour explaining I have always found the McMorran Yarn Balance to be the most accurate tool for estimating yardage and in many cases. And it has the added value of math I can easily do in my head.
Caveat Emptor: Presently I do not sell, but personally own and occasionally all except the Boye product. We have sold, and my first choice is the McMorran Yarn Balance. And yes, we are hoping within the month to have an imperial (lb/oz) version available.
Click on any of the images for larger image or to visit the information pages for these products. Please Note: Links may be “affilate links” or to my shop – ItsAllJustString.com
There are several difference styles of Yardage Counters – often found in the Fishing section of a Sporting Goods department – used to measure fishing line as it is reeled onto the spinner.
All the devices I have seen have quite an issue with handling yarn beyond accuracy is an issue even in industry situations which is why measuring by weight is usually much or active (averaging plus/minus 10%) and why I included YPP (Yards Per Pound) in my yarn label reference chart and will soon add some additional lines that may be helpful to others.
Until recently, among the most common is probably the Berkeley Line Counter
Keep in mind that these devices were not originally designed for use with yarn and when used for wire and for fishing line are usually quite accurate.
Recently, Simplicity – Boye has been offering a variation and I have not used it. I suspect it will be victim of the same issues any YARNandTHREAD have stretch and that is at the heart of the “issues” when using any of the meter/counter devices. My suspicion is based on the Amazon reviews for this product.
Nancy’s Knit Knacks used the DIY idea that weaver (including Nancy and Wheat) had been using for years and put it into another tool for their wide ranging tools and accessories for yarn users. As you can see, it incorporates both the Berkely meter and some yarn control to help with the consistency for the best possible result. There are other versions with a meter mounted – usually sold thru shops that cater to production and other hand weavers. I do consider
Nancy’s Yardage Meter to be fairly priced because of the quality of their workmanship.
While I can say from experience with the more expensive models sold thru sporting goods suppliers, that these work reasonably well with thinner, (Fingering – sock) smooth yarns but it gets interesting from sport on up; if I did not already these, I would probably not buy them again. .
In the interest of comparative pricing – The McMorran falls into the $25 to $30 range – but it does mena you will also need a scale that measure in fractions of an ounce to get the best possible result. Fortunately reasonably priced scales are not as hard to find as they once were.
—
Enjoy The Making
Wheat
