October 24th, 2011 at 12:01 pm » Comments (0)

If the purpose of your signature is to help increase traffic,

Then DO NOT ASSUME that just “www” is enough.

Many email readers need you to includ
“http://”
So that the link appears “clickable”

Wheat

read: Wheat Wrote WHAT !!! http://www.WheatCarr.com
shop: ItsAllJustString http://www.ItsAllJustString.com

October 18th, 2011 at 00:01 am » Comments (1)

One of the often asked questions is how long to make a scarf.

One answer is “until you run out of yarn” but that is not really helpful
If you know the adult who will be receiving the scarf, then either a scarf as long as they are tall for a scarf that will generally fall about 1/2 way between waist and neck

Keep in mind that I personally like long scarves (sharing the lover of long flowing scarves with Isadore Duncan) – I prefer to use height plus 18in ( 45cm) for a scarf that falls at the waist or slightly longer.

I also find this works well for children, giving adequate length to tie the scarf and a bit of length for use as they grow taller.

If you don’t know the details of the recipient (as often happens with charity projects) I suggest 72in-180cm – may not fall to the waist but should be long enough to go around the neck at least once and still fill in the neck of a coat or jacket.

For a Fashion scarf, 45in/110cm would be a minimum, but I think at least 48in/122cm is better

If you plan to use the currently trendy noose style, then you may want to make your scarf at least 60in-150cm.

Last but not least, remember, a shawl is really just wide scarf although I think the minimum for an adult should be at least 60in/150cm.

I use these lengths for all techniques – Crochet, Knit or Handwoven.

Enjoy The Making

Wheat

October 14th, 2011 at 09:35 am » Comments (1)

Many of us with on-line businesses are often tempted to rely on our suppliers “hosting” product pictures.

Among the lessons I have learned the hard way –

The problem comes when they move or disco that product and suddenly you have products with no image, but taking up space in your inventory.

It may take some time, but it would be in your own self interest to build your own library of images – EVEN if it is just dragging the image to a file for that supplier/product on the machine you use primarily for preparing info for the web.

October 4th, 2011 at 00:57 am » Comments (2)

It is always amazing how one discussion leads to another. What started in Crochet Partners as a request for suggestion on wool for a toddler hat, evolved into some great comments on felting.

One of the best was a very basic summary of how to felt, by machine.

And I thank Marty for reminding me of a Tiplet I wanted to share during the last felting discussion.

It is one of those things you pick up when you come at something from a different direction.

So many new people have come to felting by way of Knit or Crochet – that they may have never really learned the basics the way a traditional felter, spinner or weaver does.

I have never quite understood why so many people seem to need to do multiple “washing” – in fsct almost every set of directions you read relating to felting Knit or Crochet, seems to mention multiple runs thru their machine.

So WHY is that not the case for me ?!*? Well, sometimes literally is something in the water, but that effects dying and bread rising more often than not.

So in that “semi conscious” time of the morning, I suddenly realized that what was missing from most if not all of the commonly available instructions for “Machine Felting” of Knot or Crochet (or wovens for that matter) as PRE-Soaking –

Both Felting and Kool-Aid Dyeing require you to presoak, in lukewarm is best, for at least 30 minutes. This helps to get all the fibers possible “opened” and thus more likely to felt or accept the dye.

For felting, my usual method is to fill a bucket with warm to almost hot water in the slop sink next to the washing machine about 1/2 full. Give it a squirt of my “ivory soap” liquid, stir and then use a long dowel or wooden spoon to gently submerge the item. I “weight it” to it stay under water with a heavy dinner plate.

If it won’t stay down, Jaquie Carey’s acrylic covered Kumihimo bobbins add weight to the plate and since they are completely covered in a relatively non-reactive coating (as may be some others).

After about 10 minutes, with the plate still in place, Add a tea kettle of hot water – pour it slowing over the plate so that you are not hitting the fibers directly with the changed temperature.

When the water reaches room temp, the fibers should be nice and open and you are ready to add it to the wash, draining option. We have an unfinished floor with the drain located near the slop sink, so no matter if it gets a bit sloppy. I like to add a sneaker or two to help with the agitation part of the process.

Wash on Hot, Rinse on Cold and you get your temperature change. Some advise to check on the piece from time to time, but admittedly I do not. Instead I am careful to be there when the spin ends so I can remove and shape the project before putting it into the dryer. That is when I do check it about every 15 minutes – shaping if needed, until dry.

Pre-Soaking KA – Mix the Kool-Aid into rather warm water, add the yarn or fibers (again making sure they are submerged, same tricks but usually smaller plate will work.) Soak for about 15-30 minutes until water cools. Now follow whatever felting works best for you.

Here is the link to the first of my Kool-Aid articles or use the Kool-Aid Category.

Enjoy The Making

Wheat