There are more possible ways to start a project, but the two most commonly know are the “tradtional” Base Chain
Base Chain, aka/The Base Row From Hell, is something to get past. It causes everyone issues from time to time and probably is responsible for 90% of those who give up on Crochet. You may not be surprised to find that I do not think using a large hook for the chain is a good solution. IMNHO it creates more problems than it solves and makes a sloppy edge – but if it works for you and you are happy with the result who am I to judge?
As an alternative, many of us use Chainless Foundations whenever possible, there are situations when it is not right for the project (thankfully not too many ) There exceptions to the following, but fewer than you might thing – so relax and learn to enjoy the anticipation of getting past the base chain.
But whichever method you choose, a traditional Base or Foundationless chain, be sure to leave a “Tail Marker”
Somewhere along the line I began using the phrase “Tail Marker” Later, in an attempt at discretion “Kite String” – although either can be appropriately descriptive, depends on the age and life experience/attitude of the student – trust me one has to be aware of possible urban connotations when volunteering in an inner city after school program or lots of other places – although the gentleman at the VA did find it amusing when I keep telling then not to forget their piece of tail)
Whether you must use a Base Chain or can use the Chainless Foundation, START with a Chain that is longer.
How much longer will depend on the project and your planned finishing style. If you are working a traditional base chain, it may not be the end of the world – still, if you counted wrong, you don’t have to rip back to add more. When one compares the cost of a yard of yarn with the value of the time to rip and rework – it is an excellent trade off
When the project requires the use of a Base Chain I always make the chain long enough to support at least two or three motifs. So if the Motif requires 6+2, I will make the chain at least an extra 18 or so links.
Aside from counting wrong for the pattern, because of variation in personal gauge, you have feel at the end of that first row it really needs to be a motif or two wider
The excess links now serve as my “marker” for RS/WS – Right Side/Wrong Side aka: FS/BS – Front Side/Back Side .
Determining RS/WS, often difficult for those who crochet, as the work may appear the same on both sides. It is very helpful when a project has been set aside. With the TAIL MARKER, you have a quick reference to get restarted in the correct direction.
It does not matter if you are left or right handed, the principle is the same. The Tail Marker should always be on the same side – since I am mostly right hand dominant, the tail will be on my LEFT when the Right side is facing me .
The CHAINLESS FOUNDATION
For those who may have difficulty with CHAINLESS FOUNDATION “counts” the Tail Marker serves to make it much easier to see where the first stitch of your Chainless work begins.
Once you have the concept that the Chainless Foundation is both your BASE CHAIN and YOUR FIRST ROW , it becomes easier to grasp that you now work a turning chain as directed in your pattern at the end of the direct row, turn your work and continue.
If you enjoy experimenting with stitch motifs squares worked in the round, the Tail Maker will help you to avoid accidentally placing the “wrong” up as you
When working in the round, as one does for Grannie Squares, the ” Reverse Tail Marker” is made by leaving a tail at the lower corner. How long that should be will depend on what you have planned for “connecting” pieces of your work/project. A Short length of yarn can be used to connect corners – a hand technique in some thread or scrumbling work.
For example, when ready to assemble squares I often use either the illusion of Stained Glass or Attic/Cathedral Windows blocks. To do this each round is usually finished with at least one row of single crochet. By leaving enough yarn to then use my favorite join, that of using a modified SC – Single Crochet, I don’t have to add yarn – which means one less Russian Join or one less knot and end to weave.
I hope you will find the use of a KITE TAIL MARKER helpful whatever style of foundation you choose.
This needs more work, but here are a few types of joins. And yes, I know it needs illustrations – maybe someday, but it is a place to start for today.
Admitting to a certain amount of AR, I do NOT KNOT. Knots are best left to Knotting, Netting and Macrame. Nor do I “seal” knots with fabric glue. If others find these useful and they are satisfied with the result, that is fine, just not for me.
With any method, you of course will also need to take into consideration repeats in the colorway of the yarn itself – this is particularly important when working with self patterning yarns to avoid disconcerting oddities in the finished project final appearance.
Assuming you have read your pattern thru completely before starting (hint) you may want to use consider which join will work best for your project while making your pattern swatch (hint, hint, often not the gauge swatch)
In reverse order of what I use most often:
The SPIT or often more politely referred to as a FELTED join – is dependent on its fiber content to determine if it is useful for your project in hand. Internet myth/assertion to the contrary. Neither Superwash (wool treated so it can be machine washed without major shrinkage) or Plant based fibers, (cotton, hemp, linen, etc) or man made (acrylic, microfibers, etc) will felt. They may LOOK felted but first time they get stressed (normal wearing or washing) they will come undone. –
I am most likely to use the spit method only when working with Sheeps wool and only for joining the same color.
Sometimes, if only because it is what I was taught by the “Cookie Lady” – a neighbor who taught me to crochet AND who made the world’s best cookies of many many varieties….
Next is layering or feathering. When you still have a yard left (just to make the handling easier) Separate the plys for 6-8 inches by untwisting them. Now “feather” each ply to a different length. It helps if you can pull out the fibers a bit at a time so each ply ends in a point. This I learned from the owner of my first LYS experience (her shop was next to the place we got our school uniforms) Mrs Goldman of Goldman yarns, you can read a bit about her at:
Repeat for the new yarn to be joined. Now match up each ply with the complimentary size, (longest with shortest) by over lapping and twisting each ply together. When all there are twisted, twist all together. This really take longer to type than to do for most 3 ply yarns.
This will work for most yarns, and even for threads.
Last but not least, the second method I learned (about age 6) is the RUSSIAN JOIN. It may be you will find it, as I do, the most useful of all. The RUSSIAN JOIN will generally work with any type of yarn, With a bit of care and an extra step or two, it is possible to place the join rather precisely and this is especially important when color changes are involved.
If you “google” Russian Join – there are dozens of illustrations –
You may have noticed with these three joins – NO KNOTS and NO ENDS TO WEAVE IN!
No ends that will eventually work their way out and lower the quality of your work.
According to House of Scotland.org “Fulling, milling, or waulking of home-made cloth for household use was carried out in Gaelic Scotland by pounding the material against a board or trampling it with the feet. The techniques are of great antiquity and were also used elsewhere, but they happened to survive in the Hebrides into the twentieth century. The process of waulking is called luadh (“loo-ugh”) in Gaelic, and the songs of waulking are known as orain luaidh (“or-ine loo-ie”).” (see more about waulking at House Of Scotland )
Apparently there are many songs, but the “beat” remains nearly identical for the best result, a fabric fulled, allowing for the drape needed in a Tartan, so not felted but with a fabric provide warmth by keeping out the wind and provide protection from wet weather.
Below is a clip of the wonderful teacher of weaving and weaving traditions Norman Kennedy leading a Waulking at the John C Campbell Folk School several years ago. I was lucky enough to observe when he led a group at Maryland Sheep & Wool Festival in the past.
Most importantly, maybe you have not been color trained, but if you look at a combination, made a small swatch and LIKE THE RESULT – then the rules be damned –
CAVEAT: I do not currently sell any of the products mentioned, but I probably should since they are so personally helpful – That changes, I will edit this Tiplet
Must be something in the air, the same day a question comes up in Tunisian Crochet, I also get two emails asking me about learning aids.
There are so many excellent color references books and tools out there, but these are the ones, I like today.
It is described (and with a bit of practice really does work much more effectively than a basic color wheel) as “a tool for designers in all artistic mediums to help create color combinations and to understand color relationships… Helps organize colors to make choices and combinations easier… ”
Although I AM going to have to get them to include Crocheters and Kumihimists (braider) into the list of “artists”
Now if you want an insight into just how restrained my importance of swatching really is, I can be… another product those who are as wacky as I can be (I prefer wacky to a diagnosis of AR) is their Create-A-Wheel
An uncolored color wheel ready for you to paint your own favorite colors. A practical, hands-on, tool for teaching … color relationships. Although designed for use by painters, I have been know to make a larger copy of this and then glue yarns and fabrics to it until I find the combination that make me happy.
Because of the first can be just as useful when made last… maybe you have not been color trained, but if you look at a combination, made a small swatch and LIKE THE RESULT – then the rules be damned
Kim Guzman the well known Tunisian Crochet Designer is planning a CAL (Crochet-A-Long) based on a vintage Tunisian Men’s Glove Pattern
Kim started planning this CAL after some discussion in the Yahoo Group for Tunisian Crochet Kim co-owns with aRNIE Grabowski, while it is a good pattern, but some of the language is a bit “old school” so can cause some difficulty for today’s crochet enthusiast.
Kim has announced that she will be conducting the crochet-along in the CrochetKimCAL. If you are already a member of that YahooGroup, you need do nothing. If you are not a member and would like to participate, you will need to visit the link and request membership.
Knowing one of the “Gotcha’s” for vintage patterns is they were written (as are many today) in support of a specific yarn and yarns come and go so it is sometimes not easy to “get the details quickly. With this in mind, using an early (7th ) and the current (53rd) editions of Valuable Knitting Information to get the necessary yarn details.
This vintage pattern wants
Bear Brand Win-Sport yarn
Sport Weight with 235 yards,
Pattern Gauge is 7 STI
(28 across 10cm/4 in)
What concerns me is that the same pattern gauge the yarn label give for “knitting gauge”. It is true Tunisian is somewhat heavier than knitting, although not as much as standard crochet. I think swatching will be a definite requirement even with a perfectly matched yarn and possibly even fulling the swatch to be sure the fabric is acceptable.
Another reason to swatch is the pattern suggests an E (US Size) hook. D & E have changed over the years so for vintage patterns I compared the chart of the covers of the 7th and 53rd editions VKI (which are the same) as well as my own Hook Chart If, as the knitting gauge suggests, a 3.5mm is needed, then, depending on when and where your hook was made, it might be considered either a D or an E. (the CYC places this as a D, but Clover, Pony and Boye and Bates all suggest this as an E)
Still, ultimately the BearBrand Win-Sport drops nicely into the CYC No 1 – Fingering Yarn Category – near the top but within range in my own Yarn Label Reference Chart
My plan to swatch using Arucania’s Ranco – a sock yarn Although a bit heavier with a knit gauge of 6 STI, it should not be all that difficult to adjust a bit. I will likely use similar concepts as those shown in the WikiHow WikiHow for sizing
If these get done, then I think it will be fun to also make a cowl to keep my neck and shoulders warn while computing, who knows maybe even matching socks – maybe even in time for next winter
But first the search for the “perfect hook” for this project.
House of Scotland.org
Apparently there are many songs, but the “beat” remains nearly identical for the best result, a fabric fulled, allowing for the drape needed in a Tartan, so not felted but with a fabric provide warmth by keeping out the wind and provide protection from wet weather. 
Now if you want an insight into just how restrained my importance of swatching really is, I can be… another product those who are as wacky as I can be (I prefer wacky to a diagnosis of AR) is their 
Knowing one of the “Gotcha’s” for vintage patterns is they were written (as are many today) in support of a specific yarn and yarns come and go so it is sometimes not easy to “get the details quickly. With this in mind, using an early (7th ) and the current (53rd) editions of 
Arucania’s Ranco – a sock yarn Although a bit heavier with a knit gauge of 6 STI, it should not be all that difficult to adjust a bit. I will likely use similar concepts as those shown in the WikiHow