Braid thinking out loud – there is a conversation in Kumihimo Beaded Braids that reminded me of a tip of sorts I had been meaning to share.

Although I do not have a smart phone, I do have an OLD Video Camera that I use exclusively to develop instructions and to determine where my execution of instructions is going horribly wrong.

Most recently I applied that to introductory Kumihimo Braids and more specfically what could be done to help those who want to move from disc to dai.

It has long seemed to me that the biggest & easiest issue to lose site of in the transition is so many do not understand that they are different. While I know some agree, it may well be we under estimate how long it is going to take for our frontal lobe to be convinced and as a result our progress and certainly our speed of execution is hindered.

So how to “fix” this. Flying in the face of conventional wisdom – creating a new Paradigm – and likely severely annoying a certain segment with the bead & braid world since it will mean rethinking and perhaps rewriting instructions – not to mention all those you tubes and free tutorials that (at least in my never humble opinion) hinder the growth of the braiders knowledge and skills.

For some time, my mantras were altered to start with “on this disc” and “on this dai” – AND I really needed to find out why I seemed to be having so much difficulty reacquiring the needed muscle memory as well as why I seemed to be losing it between projects.

In a effort to more objectively evaluate where I am going wrong, I used the video camera to see what I was doing and find the errors of my ways. The BFOO (blinding flash of obvious) there is no reason why a disc must be used with only one hand and in fact that is a detriment to the student to insist they should

It seems such a simple answer, using two hands regardless of the tool – disc or dai. Why not teach – to quote a wonderful Quaker lady a bit out of context – to start as we mean to go on. I have always found the reliance on numbers (and the tedious lines of instructions that creates) a hinderance. In braiding it is and should be about the movement and flow, not about moving eyes from page to disc to find the numbers.

I suppose this “thought” has been brewing for sometime and might just be why I “Suddenly” needed to work the introductory braids in Art of Kumihimo on a disc. A project that went more quickly because of using two hands as I would to have followed the information on a Marudai and when I then moved over to the marudai – was back up to speed within one full sequence of moves, instead of several inches of braid.

Further the self critique reminded me one of the reasons I like to braid is the use of two hands. now I deliberately use both hands prefer to use two hands with the disc is because when analyzing my own technique that there was a definite correlation between which tool I have been using more heavily and how long it took to get back the skill level previously enjoyed.

As always, since I already know what I think, I hope you will share you thoughts with me.

Now I need some guinea pigs to test my theory – hoping my braider friends will give it a try and let me know if it helps their transition from disc to dai.

One of the life lessons learned the hard way is about an ounce of prevention. As a result, I am among the proponents for an often dreaded word in the fiber art community – Sampling.

Or, as I prefer to identify with, i am a PROCESS person, one who wants to understand how it works and why, BEFORE I start breaking the rule – after all failure to plan is planning to fail.

How long should the threads be on each element?

This will vary not only from structure to structure and craftsman to craftsman – as well as for techniques like braiding and knotting – it will also vary within the structure for each element, and of course vary with the material used for each element.

The simplest way, in the long term is make a sample using similar materials as you plan to use in the final project.

Measure the length BEFORE load onto the tama/bobbin/carrier or other “loose” thread/cord.

Always allow for the “waste”. The easiest way to do this is to work at least two inches in pattern. MEASURE UNUSED – now you have a starting point.

Mark the point of the first measurement and record “used to this point”
Record AMOUNT at Start MINUS AMOUNT REMAINING –
this is your starting point for each element.

Work in pattern until your sample is 6 to 8 inches in length.
Measure Unused, Record amount used
At this point you can either “finish” or based on your experience decide how much more will be used for each element depending on your choice of finishing method.

Subtract the remaining amount from the staring amount, add 10% for insurance and that is your “guideline” for future projects using similar materials with the same structure.

Yeah I know this needs some work and maybe some photos, but I have confidence that those who want to learn will.

I remember a conversation with one of the executives at Jeanette Crews some years ago. We have been having some timiliness issues with a particular designer and and the “money” guy was a bit upset about the losses because we coule not get a pre-sold book to press. He asked in an outdoor voice, “Can’t we just scan it into something and get the instructions”. The three design professionals AND company CEO all said, in GREAT outdoor voices NO!!! Someone added “and best you get that thru your thick head once and for all”.

There is much more to pattern authoring than just the design of a motif, the choosing of a shape, and oh well the list goes on.

As often as not, I will get an email that makes it clear to me that something is not clear. Confused yet?

So many misunderstandings occur when Semantics meets Expectations

how does this relate to Symbol Crochet – Well, at the moment we have very few options, each has benefits BUT none of them can replace a Pattern Author or at least none in the the under $100 category includes the ability to WRITE/Author a Pattern –
And if I had time to research, I suspect it would in the uner $200 and in some cases features in the $2000 and up range.

Rather they CHART – create a graphic representation of a series of stitches to form a Motif.

The route of the chaos might be that while most professional designers understand that until they are ready to spend a LOT more money, many new to the business of design have not yet understood this and think at the programs in the $ 50.00 range are going to deliver.

For example, looking at the two I use/have used for CROCHET CHARTING

New England’s Software describes the purpose of SymbolCro as to provide computer aided drafting of circular and/or rectangular crochet patterns using symbols.

StitchWorks describes itself as software for creating symbol crochet charts that can be shared or published …

Neither says it is a pattern writer and frankly I don’t want them to be. When we are working on patterns for publications we have to be able to format as needed.

Are there “I Wish” features – sure – but we can all save ourselves a LOT of upset if we take the time to understand what we are buying and then make a decision if it meets our needs.

Life is just too dang short to waste any of it on unreasonable expectations.

This is a work in progress, compiled from a variety of sources including my own experience – I do suggest reading the term explanations/glossary of the description headings –

I would be delighted to hear your thoughts for improvement including what might need to be added or changed or perhaps better explained.

Hope you find at least some helpful and will look forward to your constructive comments

Enjoy The Making

Wheat

Back to Chart…

Glossary – Or how to speak in Wheat

Blanket – Blanket measurements are very helpful in estimating the additional width needed to cover the drop – sides of the mattress.

Common Description – These are name often used in advertising to refer to a particular product.

Drop – The height of the mattress – varys greatly depending on type of mattress – Wheat Rule of Thumb for Adult Bedding where a dust ruffle will be likely is 8 to 12 inches ON EACH SIDE (sometimes determined by how much yarn is left to finish the project.)

Top – this is the area that is one the TOP of the bed – or the finished size of your quilt or afghan – it does not include any allowance for the sides of the mattress or hems or well anything.

Pillow Cover – ONE SIDE of the finished average measurement for a pillow cover (pillow case) – also useful determine how much to add to length of bed top to include covering the pillow. If you want to make a standard pillow cover, the fabric needs to be at least 40 inches plus seam allowance by the length plus hem allowance if needed. – By the way – there is no rule that says both sides of a pillow cover have to be the same.

Tiplet – Things Wheat has learned – mostly the most difficult way – that you may find helpful as you work on your project

Back to Chart …

If the question posed in the Tunsian Crochet group had asked about converting Crochet to Knit or Knit to Crochet, a polite referral to my blog article in 2007 would have been the short answer. Well really No, would be the short answer, but the link would be next most brief

Instead, the question asked was about “regular” to “Tunisian” crochet and since they are both crochet – it is more doable with a reasonably positive result.

Caveat Emptor, I do sell Crochet related books, quite a few actually, just not all on line at the moment. And yes I do sell mostly Technique reference and some patterns were I like the way the patterns are written.

Please understand, the reason I sell them is because I use them. I use them as a starting point for EXACTLY the type of project you are asking for.

If the only thing about the pattern you like is the “shape” of the final garment, then your plan might be okay. If it is the texture and/or the hand of the garment or any characteristic related to the technique used, then it may not be satisfactory.

In a teaching/consulting situation, I would be asking you why, if you know both, you want to do it in another technique How you answered would/could lead to whole different set of questions and answers. If you would like to continue this type of discussion, let me know in the comments.

When I see a project in a technique that is not the one I want to use, In this case Pattern in Crochet and you want to use Tunisian,

I would start by doing an “IN PATTERN” Swatch in the original pattern’s technique. Then see if it can be easily duplicated.
In this case, it really should be not all that difficult to almost duplicate the SC, HDC alternating motif you describe. You will only need to pay close attention to your Yarn Over’s (YO) in the forward pass to be sure you have the loops need.

For a more complicated stitch motif, next stop would be the shelf with all the technique references and “find the stitch motif” that duplicates or comes really close. You might not be surprised to learn this shelf has a very comfy chair, a place for my coffee cup and a good supply of graph paper and coloured pencil for design and gel pens for outlining and of course various sized hooks and yarns for swatching.

Once you find a motif that fits your needs, you will need to swatch with the actual yarn and various sized hooks until you get the gauge needed for the hand of fabric you prefer.

I need to thank Marisa for her question, it helped me to get a good start on explaining a concept I hope to explore further in my blog in the coming months.

Enjoy The Making
Wheat

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Edit note: Thanks to Ann McClure for finding my typos, proving yet again editors need editors and proof readers too