January 1st, 2014 at 08:45 am » Comments (1)

Sooner or later everything reaches a tipping point.Edited 2021-02-13: Some dreams don’t work out as hoped – this was one.
Still it does include some strongly held beliefs about our responsibility for the good of the craft (whichever one(s) you enjoy)

We are finally launching a “dream project” AllJustString is intended to provide a place for personal development of our skills and knowledge, keep the information accessible and organized in a manner that will allow those who follow to find and benefit in a way not currently possible in other venues.

It is also a founding principle that many of us don’t have craft-tunnel-vision – meaning that we enjoy many forms of craft and there is great diversity in how we each choose to bend our string. We can admire and respect those who practice a technique whether we choose to participate,

Our goal is help each other build on skills and knowledge and derivations – while giving our undying respect and support to those offering the opportunity to expand our knowledge and skill from the quick picture or video tutorials, to (at least in my home) a whole bookcase of others who have “done the research” and codified technique, and in many cases, the history of their chosen craft.

It is our obligation as an artisan (someone who works with their hands and their heart) to acknowledge as much as possible those who made our development possible. It is our ethical obligation to respect their copyrights and never feel we “need” to get attention by sharing that which is not ours to share.

At the end of the day, other than for marketing purposes, the only thing likely to be truly original is how you present it. And that work should be judged on your competence and vision.

Our goal is to help you find the knowledge and information you need, in a manner respectful to you, and to your sources of inspiration.

I hope you will join us and bring along some friends to show and share our love of our crafts and our fiber artistic adventures (remember, beads are lumps string so they count too)

Always Take Time To Enjoy The Making
Wheat

July 7th, 2013 at 10:01 am » Comments (0)

Pattern Gauge is the gauge that the Pattern Author has designated as what is needed for the project to be “as advertised”

This is technical a draft, but it has the basics covered and eventually I will add to it –

Pattern Gauge is, often as not – DIFFERENT than the LABEL Gauge (the information noted on the yarn label) So you can’t just look at the pattern gauge and know what style of yarn to choose (DK, Worsted, Bulky, etc)

Hopefully the Pattern Author has also included some yarn specifics, for example many of patterns call for lace and fingering weight yarns and use 6mm and larger hooks – not the Label suggestion of 2.23mm to 3.5mm.

Pattern Gauge has a huge effect on the amount of yarn needed to complete the project. One might think that with the many wonderful smorgasbord project – people would be inclined to buy sufficient yarn even if that means a bit leftover. But they don’t and then its gets dicey because that color or dyelot or even that yarn may no longer be around.

So, in addition to the very real issue of yarn needed for the project and how gauge can make that a very painful experience, you know the kind you learn the hard way.

Gauge ALWAYS matters. Size Always Matters In Craft.

GAUGE IS NOT JUST ABOUT SIZE –

it is also about

HAND – the feel of the fabric – if your gauge is off it means your fabric might be too floppy/open to be useful for the project OR conversely, too tight and it is more like armour than a fabric you want to wrap your self in.

SURFACE DESIGN – if you go to the trouble to work pattern motifs, if your gauge is off you may lose the necessary stitch definition needed to make that project all it can be

PATTERN AUTHOR INTENT – Many time the PATTERN GAUGE is not the Same as the LABEL GAUGE and if your goal is to have your project look like the pattern author intended, then you need to swatch to find the combination of yarn and hook that will enable you to meet that expectation.

Now I need to get a started on things like “My Gauge”, Label Gauge, and of course the OCD Swatch.

If you get here from my online store and want to get back – to the main page – click here for ItsAllJustString.com

Originally published as a page in 2013, moved to blog posts 2021-Feb-19

July 24th, 2011 at 07:51 am » Comments (0)

Not Knook but Knit With Crochet Hooks

Caveat: I am lazy, I sell Stuff, so when I need a picture for a visual reference, likely as not I will like to information in my on-line store. Whether you choose to buy from me or not, at least you will know what the #@$% thing looks like.

The question that often comes up regarding use of double ended crochet hooks – what I call “Straights” – is can they be used for Knitting With A Crochet Hook.

It is not really possible to “Knook” with a single straight hook, not impossible, but not worth the effort and since you would STILL have to attach a cord in order to have the “second needle” Really brings us back to how just about every modern beginner spinner tries to make yarn out of dryer lint, — well what’s the point

As an added resource, I have a YahooGroup – KNITTING with Crochet hook,
where you can see examples of the modified hooks commonly used for this technique. Lots of helpful stuff in our files and all skill levels are welcomed.

The Magic technique is a great way to come to understand knit stitches, although it would not be my first choice – In The Attic Flexible Looms are much better for that.

Tunisian is, in my opinion, the “best bridge” no matter which direction – Crochet to Knit, Knit to Crochet. Much about Tunisian is remarkably close to “Continental/German/PICKING” style of holding Knit Needles and Yarn – Tunisian’s best YahooGroup is aptly called TunisianCrochet

What I have been know to call “Crochet Continental” (okay I drip too much coffee) is what I have been doing this for years since finding double ended flexible and circular crochet hooks. The hand position and use of the non-dominant hand pointer finger to control and “place” the yarn in the Contentiental/Picker method.
Interweave’s Knitting Daily had an excellent article about Pickers vs Throwers

http://www.knittingdaily.com/blogs/daily/archive/2009/09/09/how-we-knit-throwing-or-picking.aspx” “target=”_blank

Once “discovered” has always made more sense to me – proving yet again, that what we learn first is going to be what we are most likely to be comfortable doing.

Certainly, had the first first (make that the first dozen or so) who attempted to teach me to knit, used continental I am fairly certain I would have “gotten it” several decades sooner.

Kim Guzman http:
recently “credited” me with doing research into this topic. If far too many hours of trial and error, with the most common result being turning the air blue with my ability to swear in multiple languages, then yes, I had have done some research.

It has been my experience that

80cm/32 inch length of the Pony Double ended

http:

works well for almost everything, however, when a larger than 6.50mm tip is needed, or when a longer or shorter cord is more appropriate, then the CrochetDenise system works quite well.

The bottom line is, just as we should select Materials and Tools apppropriate to the project – we also need to use the technique or combination of techniques that will give us a final product we will be happy about

After All, The Idea IS To

Enjoy The Making

Wheat

Wheat Carr
Shop: http://www.ItsAllJustString.com
Read: Wheat Wrote WHAT!?!: http://www.wheatcarr.com

June 15th, 2009 at 06:27 am » Comments (0)

Burying Ends – The basic technique
– draft 15-Jun-2009

It seems that no matter what the craft, if it uses string, sooner or later, every one asks for/needs suggestions on how to bury ends.

It is also important to consider “suitable to the project” – one would not want to make HUGE holes, even on the backing of a large quilt.

No matter what I am teaching, I always tell students that they should leave LONG tails – this will vary depending on the technique

For Quilting/Sewing or most other needle work, at least 4in/10cm and my personal practice is about a foot. This will allow you to use something like Clover’s Self-Threading Needles

For knit and crochet, enough yarn to form at least 3 or more complete stitches, but usually about 12in/30cm – If you have MANY color changes, this could add up, so you will want to consider learning Russian Join or some other “bury as you go technique”

Again, This may seem wasteful but…
Unless you are using real precious metals, it is just not worth the frustration! Yarns, thread, or most stringing materials are relatively inexpensive. Certainly much less expensive than the mind altering migraine meds that such frustration leads to

You can always use the thrums for something else later so feel free to save them.

Okay, so now you know that “for future reference, but what to do with that project with a gadzillion ends NOW?

There are many ways to thread a needle, or more effectively to needle a thread – and many types of needle threaders. ItsAllJustString.com

Although I sell many different threaders, for burying thread ends, particularly possible short ends.

Rather you may find this low tech ‘technique’ suggestion. While I am sure I was not the first to invent it – it was something I started doing in relation to bead stringing so will claim rights to parallel development*.

You will need

Needle almost any size will do – (Bead Note: it MUST be able to go thru your beads while threaded with hand sewing thread that has been knotted to create a loop _NEEDS MORE EXPLAINATION

Length of Thread

Generally I use Nymo or Bobbin thread or Perle Cotton – it will depend on the technique and the “holes” that exist in the fabric.

Needle – type will vary depending on your project, but for buying say quilt ends

Optional:

Flexible sheet foam

Tweezer or Forcepts that are capable of easily gripping the yarn or thread used in the project.

1. Using a strong but fine thread, thread a needle with a length of thread at least 3-4 times the length of your needle (i.e. if you needle is 2in/5cm long, use a piece of thread measuring 6in/15cm to 8in/20cm in length) it is just easier to work with. Generally I use bobbin thread or for nymo, but whatever you choose it should be strong.

2. Tie a secure knot about 1/2 inch LONGER than the length of your needle. I actually keep a bit of flexible sheet foam in my “tool kits” so that I will have something reasonable firm to “tie the know against” – but still flexible for easy removal of the loop you are creating.

3. Slide the loop off – trim ends but not too close –
don’t want the knot to come out

4. Using the tweezer or even a ‘thread crochet hook’ pull the thread end into/thru the loop.

If it is very short, you may want to “hold it with the tweezer”

*Sincerely hoping this explanation will avoid a lot of unnecessary – it was ‘refined” a bit for stringing beads onto carrier YARNandTHREAD

February 7th, 2008 at 00:16 am » Comments (10)

Ever since finding the Pony Double Ended Crochet hooks, about two years ago, I have been using experimenting with them for knitting – thinking this might be good for kids (and grown ups) to help in learning knit techniques. When I started tripping over reference to Portuguese Knitting and its use of crochet hooks, naturally I got curious but then and now, there just never are enough hours in the day to “research”.

Recently Abby wrote about Andean spinning and that reminded me of how often I wished I could ask her Dad, Ed Franquemont about this. He was such a fountain of historical information – usually with good data to back it up.

Well, the last few weeks, it seems I am on something of a tear attempting to find more info about “Portuguese Knitting” which seems to share some technique with the Andean poeples as well.

What I have been able to find “so far”, mostly surmised from YouTube Videos, vagure memories of watching Ed Franquemont showing some “Incan” knitting and pictures in a few books, is that some how yarn is tension either by wearing the skein like a necklace, or using a pin on one’s shoulder. (See the picture of Andrea Wong here

Thus the yarn is between you and the work “most of the time”. And the yarn is manipulated to form the stitches, using your thumb in a seemingly very efficient manner. BTW, if you are a “visual” learner, then you may just find that the YouTubes with the voice over being in Portuguese to be the most helpful/clear.

Although many have suggested Andean & Portuguese are the same, so far only “Portuguese” knitting seems to use crochet hooks and at least one of the more esoteric suppliers of fiber art tools, sells these needles – hook on one end, point on the other in a limited variety of sizes, in sets of four or five per size – suggesting use for in the round type project.

I have been told that

Andrea Wong’s Video is an excellent resource, but unhappily it will not play in any of our machines.

Several have suggested I might find more information in the out of print book, Andean Folk Knitting: Traditions and Techniques from Peru and Bolivia. by Cynthia Gravelle Lecount, ISBN: 0932394078, but so far I have not been able to find an affordable copy and/or library that has it.

I was able to find lots of sources for Marasha Lewandowski’s

Andean Folk Knits: Great Designs…

So Abby, (or anyone else) I’d love to hear from you – Or should I just resign myself, accept I can knit with crochet hooks and will never know the history