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January 1st, 2014 at 08:45 am » Comments (1)
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Sooner or later everything reaches a tipping point.
We are finally launching a “dream project” AllJustString is intended to provide a place for personal development of our skills and knowledge, keep the information accessible and organized in a manner that will allow those who follow to find and benefit in a way not currently possible in other venues.
It is also a founding principle that many of us don’t have craft-tunnel-vision – meaning that we enjoy many forms of craft and there is great diversity in how we each choose to bend our string. We can admire and respect those who practice a technique whether we choose to participate,
Our goal is help each other build on skills and knowledge and derivations – while giving our undying respect and support to those offering the opportunity to expand our knowledge and skill from the quick picture or video tutorials, to (at least in my home) a whole bookcase of others who have “done the research” and codified technique, and in many cases, the history of their chosen craft.
It is our obligation as an artisan (someone who works with their hands and their heart) to acknowledge as much as possible those who made our development possible. It is our ethical obligation to respect their copyrights and never feel we “need” to get attention by sharing that which is not ours to share.
At the end of the day, other than for marketing purposes, the only thing likely to be truly original is how you present it. And that work should be judged on your competence and vision.
Our goal is to help you find the knowledge and information you need, in a manner respectful to you, and to your sources of inspiration.
I hope you will join us and bring along some friends to show and share our love of our crafts and our fiber artistic adventures (remember, beads are lumps string so they count too)
Always Take Time To Enjoy The Making
Wheat Carr, founder
The Forum for Fiber Folk:
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July 16th, 2013 at 12:53 pm » Comments (2)
The first step in any project is always the planning and when you are working without a net (I mean pattern).
There can be either devils or delights in the details. for this project I tried (but did not succeed) to limit to yarns in my stash and further limited my choices to those presently showing a good amount of stock at the KFI and Euro Warehouses.
Queensland Rustic Tweed: 63% Wool, 27% Alpaca, 7% Acrylic, 3% Viscose blend with approx 318 yards per 100gram
Ella Rae Superwash Classic 100% Wool with approx 220 yards per 100g ball.
Ella Rae Cozy Soft Solids 25% Superwash Wool, 75% Acrylic with approx 213 yards per 100g.
Like all fashion products, it can certainly be gone tomorrow, but at least it is here today. As you can see, this time I got lucky, yarn choices are always an issue of availability. Might not be easy next year, but at least today I know the ones I am using “have stock in the warehouse” so I should be able to yarn requirements estimated
Last night I did this “digital” color stick – To lay out the color order and proportional width of each strip using the color swatch from The Ella Rae Superwash Classic. A color stick is used by designers to plan color sequences. When planning a sequence, it is basically the same as wrapping a ruler to determine the WPI (wraps per Inch) To get started, loosen about a yard of yarn from each skein adjusting the wraps to get the visual proportion you think best for your project. I like to start with the widest stripe.
In the Blastr photo, it appears the taupe is about 2 inches wide or a tad more. The Cream/Natural and green – although different, look to have a consistent width and the red appears to have both a narrow and a medium
Tonight I will make stick using the sequence and proportions based on “eyeballing the photo”
The photo version looks to be a simple garter stitch, so I will need to decide on crochet stitches (standard and tunisian) that will give a similiar textural appearance. It may be take a few evenings to get a good combination. For most project I would then make larger swatches so one can be washed according to the label instructions to be sure the texture and drape will hold up under normal human conditions.
For scarfs, instead of the larger swatch, Ms Barbie (she is the 36 inch tall variety – you may have met her a few years at go at TNNA) will get a 1/2 size version – her twin Ms Bink will too and it will be washed washed according to the label instructions to see if any adjustments will need to be made to the Pattern Gauge.
This step might take more than a few evenings but as long as the AC holds up, who cares if the heat index is 110 outside.
P.S. Please feel free to share a link to this page – however, I prefer you do not copy and paste to another site. Among the reasons for this is that I update when I find newer/better information to include. Here is the direct link:
P.S. Jr. Caveat Exercens:
The information contained in this blog post is based on the opinion and experience of Wheat Carr. These instructions may not be suitable for use by children of any age. Parental supervision and judgement should be exercised. My results are not a guarantee of future performance or your results especially when gauge is involved.
This blog post was created by/for WheatCarr.com July 2013 as a Whovain Fan and is not intended for commercial use. The Doctor Who brand is a trademark of the BBC. No infringement is intended or implied.
March 27th, 2013 at 10:20 am » Comments (0)
Common Types of Joins
This needs more work, but here are a few types of joins. And yes, I know it needs illustrations – maybe someday, but it is a place to start for today.
Admitting to a certain amount of AR, I do NOT KNOT. Knots are best left to Knotting, Netting and Macrame. Nor do I “seal” knots with fabric glue. If others find these useful and they are satisfied with the result, that is fine, just not for me.
With any method, you of course will also need to take into consideration repeats in the colorway of the yarn itself – this is particularly important when working with self patterning yarns to avoid disconcerting oddities in the finished project final appearance.
Assuming you have read your pattern thru completely before starting (hint) you may want to use consider which join will work best for your project while making your pattern swatch (hint, hint, often not the gauge swatch)
In reverse order of what I use most often:
The SPIT or often more politely referred to as a FELTED join – is dependent on its fiber content to determine if it is useful for your project in hand. Internet myth/assertion to the contrary. Neither Superwash (wool treated so it can be machine washed without major shrinkage) or Plant based fibers, (cotton, hemp, linen, etc) or man made (acrylic, microfibers, etc) will felt. They may LOOK felted but first time they get stressed (normal wearing or washing) they will come undone. –
I am most likely to use the spit method only when working with Sheeps wool and only for joining the same color.
Sometimes, if only because it is what I was taught by the “Cookie Lady” – a neighbor who taught me to crochet AND who made the world’s best cookies of many many varieties….
Next is layering or feathering. When you still have a yard left (just to make the handling easier) Separate the plys for 6-8 inches by untwisting them. Now “feather” each ply to a different length. It helps if you can pull out the fibers a bit at a time so each ply ends in a point. This I learned from the owner of my first LYS experience (her shop was next to the place we got our school uniforms) Mrs Goldman of Goldman yarns, you can read a bit about her at:
Repeat for the new yarn to be joined. Now match up each ply with the complimentary size, (longest with shortest) by over lapping and twisting each ply together. When all there are twisted, twist all together. This really take longer to type than to do for most 3 ply yarns.
This will work for most yarns, and even for threads.
Last but not least, the second method I learned (about age 6) is the RUSSIAN JOIN. It may be you will find it, as I do, the most useful of all. The RUSSIAN JOIN will generally work with any type of yarn, With a bit of care and an extra step or two, it is possible to place the join rather precisely and this is especially important when color changes are involved.
If you “google” Russian Join – there are dozens of illustrations –
You may have noticed with these three joins – NO KNOTS and NO ENDS TO WEAVE IN!
No ends that will eventually work their way out and lower the quality of your work.
Enjoy The Making
Read: Wheat Wrote WHAT! http://www.WheatCarr.com
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August 22nd, 2009 at 00:59 am » Comments (0)
A Monthly Contest for a publishing project I am working on. It will, we hope eventually be a “for profit” product, but only time will tell.
And, please feel free to spread the word about YarnQuest and the Label/Samples offer you can link directly to this post with this tiny URL
Here’s the skinny – although “just 3 weeks this first time” we hope that the response will warrant continuing on a monthly basis.
I need BOTH labels and 5 or 10 yards of any/all the yarns and threads I can find for the YarnQuest.com and YarnFinders.com projects (details soon)
I need BOTH labels and 5 or 10 yards of any/all the yarns and threads I can find for the YarnQuest.com and YarnFinders.com projects (details soon)
The older the better all yarns are welcome as well – with the following exceptions.
The current yarns for these “Brands” are excluded we already purchased these lines for another related project. For more specifics, follow the links to each line.
As these are received, a raffle ticket for EACH of the following,
A Label with at least 5 yards of the yarn listed on the label – label must be intact enough to read ALL yarn details (excluding any free pattern that may be part of the label.
If multiple labels and samples in the same envelope, please be sure to attach the yarn in some way to the correct label.
If your envelopes had ten samples and labels for ten different yarns, then you will have ten entries.
Please do not send multiples of the same yarn – To be clear,
UNLESS the info/description on the label is different (as sometimes happens with Solid & Multi of the same yarn) send ONLY ONE SAMPLE Per Yarn.
On the 16th of September, we will draw one raffle ticket from the box and that person will receive a $50 gift certificate for any of products offered at http://www.ItsAllJustString.com (including special ordering items you choose from our preferred manufacturers)
Coupons and gift certificates will be distributed by email, so be sure that the envelope includes your email address.
We will also issue a one time use coupon for use at ItsAllJustString.com redeemable until 29-December-2009. The coupon value will be $.75 each for the FIRST 5 yard label and yarn sent by an individual OR $1.00 for the FIRST 10 yard label and yarn in the same envelope. (each additional label and sample in same envelope – 5 yard sample and label $. and $.75 additional 10 yard sample and label.
Coupons will ONLY be redeemable ItsAllJustString.com and will apply to the total of any order you place – including sale merchandise and applicable postage & handling charges. The coupons can be used in conjunction with other special offers at ItsAllJustString.com including free shipping.
You will not be required to register for our newsletter, create a wish list or be placed on any mailing list (although you need to register at ItsAllJustString in order to “spend”) those are all separate, occasional promotions.
This first offer (Label & Yarn received by September 15th.) has no further restrictions, depending on the response, we may begin to limit acceptable entries for the second round (Sept 16 to Oct 15 2009) we will have a “running list” of samples found beginning September 10 to apply beginning September 16th at the project headquarters: http://www.YarnQuest.com
Entries should be sent to
Attn: Wheat Carr
PO Box 1232
Sykesville MD 21784-8136
This coupon has no cash value and at this time, these coupons may not be redeemed ANYWHERE but at mye-tail store: ItsAllJustString.com and must be redeemed by 29-December-2009
Thanks for helping
P.S. in one of the few times that mulitple, unrelated lawyers have agreed… Some general information printed on yarn labels is considered within the public domain (much like a recipe ingredients) so long as a picture of the actual label is not used without permission – and of course, we create our own formatting for information display.
updated 22-August-2009 for clarity.
August 20th, 2007 at 00:01 am » Comments (2)
Calipers are a measuring tool which I find indispensable for measuring Aluminum and Plastic and Wood Crochet Hooks and Knit Needles. That is why I love these little 4 inch,
click for larger image
It is my experience that most of the “4 inch” (which have an overall length of about 4.5 inches) will fit into most any “tool kit” even one as compact as Clover
Knit YARN Mate has enough room to include this and a few other “Hooking Necessities“.
For many reasons, none of the handy dandy devices measuring Knitting Needles really work well for Crochet hooks and all to often “stop” at the most common sizes at either end of the size range.
This particularly true for those of use who prefer the type of Crochet hook end found on Clover & Pony Hooks (slightly larger diameter than the barrel).
Obviously you cannot get an accurate measurement of the shaft’s diameter, using the little devices sold for knitting, because you have to be able to get the end thru. If the head of your hook is larger than the hole (unlike knitting needles with tapered points) it just does not work.
Nor, can you use the existing knitting measuring devices for our Double Ended tools, never mind needed into know estoreric details like the Diameter of Grant’s One Needle Looper vs, the K-Tel Knitter or the various sizes of Locker Hooks
For a designer, who needs to include accurate “gauge using x size hook and such and so yarn”
Add to that my need to have the enlarged handles such as Clover’s Soft Touch – so you can’t just poke the butt end thru… well you get the idea.
At just over 4.5 inch long, they easily fit into your pocket or hook pouch and at $7.99 (Sears) to $16 (Duluth Trading) or on average in your local Bead Shop – $11 – they are a worthwhile investment.
Okay too much for the occasional need to measure a Crochet Hook or Knit Needle? but what about gauge? As you can see in the picture, it is really easy to lay the caliper open as much as four inches (although I suggest no more than three and usually am happy with 2 inches) to check your gauge stitches or rows per inch and inch or two to quickly determine wraps per inch for weaving.
Just one small caveat – these are accurate to 1mm, and you can, with practice “eyeball” to .5mm, but I do not recommend using this device to accurately measure your steel hooks under 1mm or any hooks over 1mm to less than .5mm (ie, easy to see 3.5, hard to see 3.75 and certainly no way to be sure of 2.25 vs 2.3) When I need to measure those, either I just hand the box over to the inhouse engineer and his fancy dancy electronic caliper or I use a round wire measuring tool.
or, if you require tools that can measure that small for jewelry purposes I would ask at a reputable jeweler’s supply like the folks at Metalliferious in NYC.
I also find these very useful when making changes to a flat pattern – but that may be because they are there
Hope This Helps
Yes there are cheaper plastic Calipers sold in craft and hobby stores. I was so dissatisfied with their quality and accuracy that I trashed them and consider it dollars down the tubes.
Added 8/23: I am told the quality has improved, so will be looking into these less expensive – small plastic versions.
P.S. Jr, I “reduced so it would fit” the picture of the “still in the package” calipers so you would know what to look for in Sears or woodworking stores (or the tool box of someone who might not miss them immediately if you are discreet about their appropriation for better use)